The Kyajo Ri (6,186m) peak was officially opened for climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism in 2002 and listed on group climbing peak by Nepal Mountaineering Association. The peak is part of the Khumuche Himal, and located in the Gokyo Valley, Mount Everest Region of Nepal. Kyajo Ri is a spectacular, and very beautiful mountain. The first ascent was made the same year by a British & French team. This magnificent peak situated in the middle of the Khumbu region surrounded by impressive summits and fantastic views, including lots of 8,000ers. It has a beautiful, comfortable and quiet base camp, located in a wonderful isolated valley. This Kyajo ri is classified as a "Trekking Peak" which permits a less expensive, less complicated expedition. It is technical without being extreme. The route is free of fixed rope and anchors, retaining its pristine, wild condition. It lacks unacceptable levels of objective hazard. The route faces south, towards the sun and warmth.
Climbing Route & High Camps
Kyajo Ri, the standard ascent via South West Ridge is from base camp at around 4,600 meters to Camp 1 at over 5,300 meters involves a 2 hour hike over a grassy spur and boulders. Camp 1 to Camp 2 involves some technical climbing at French Alpine (AD+) over mixed face slopes up to 55? And the negotiation of a glacier. Camp 2 to the summit at 6,186 meters has been rated at French Alpine Grade D by the previous expedition. It involves a 15 hour return journey over a glacial ridge, with some mixed rock and ice pitches up to 60?.
Kyajo Ri is shorter and technically easier than Ama Dablam, but requiring multiple camps above base camp, rather than being a quick hit from a high camp. If you are looking for a more challenging and 'complete' Himalayan experience than might be gained on some of the popular 'trekking' peaks, this could be it. We aim to climb 'Expedition Style' utilizing fixed ropes.
This classic trek into the Solu-Khumbu region begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla & continually trekking along the DudhKosi ("Milk River"). After crossing the Namche Bazar “Sherpa head quater” We will gradually make our ascent to Machhermo (4,470m) and Gokyo Lake (4,790m) and climbing the Gokyo Peak (5,360m). After successfully climbing Gokyo Peak, we cross through the Ranjo La Pass, which is one of the breathtaking panoramic viewpoints for the world highest mountains. And we will start to descend and trek to Thame, from where the world-class climbers come from. And to the hidden valley of Kyajo Kharka accessed via the village of Mende. Two camps are used above Base Camp: Camp 1 at 5,300m and a high camp on a col at 5,700m. From here, the route to the summit is obvious and follows slopes up to 50 - 55 degrees. Team members need previous mountaineering
experience to join the expedition. It is a steeper, more sustained and committing climb than Island Peak or Lobuje East, for example.
Day 1Arrival in KTM (1310m), transfer to hotel & short briefing
Day 2Necessary preparation and tours
Day 3Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2,652m)35min Flight, 3-4 hrs Trek
Day 4Trek to Namche (3,440m) 5-6 hrs
Day 5Day hike to Khumjung/Khunde (3,800m)3hrs
Day 6Trek to Mongla (3,900m) 4-5hrs
Day 7Trek to Machhermo (4,410m) 7hrs
Day 8Trek to Gokyo Lake (4790m) 4-5hrs
Day 9Climb Gokyo RI (5,325m), O/N at Gokyo Lake 4-5hrs
Day 10Cross over Ranjo Pass (5,360m) and up to Lungden (4,380m) 6hrs
Day 11Trek to Thame (3,800m) 4hrs
Day 12Trek KyajoKharka (3,900m) 4hrs
Day 13Kyajo RI Base Camp (4,600m) 3hrs
Day 14Rest & Preparations
Day 15Climb to Camp 1 (5300m), Return to base camp (4600m)
Day 16Move to Camp 1 (5300m)
Day 17Rest day at Camp 1 and Sherpas to fix the route to Camp II (5700m)
Day 18Trek to Camp II/Col (5700m)
Day 19Summit day (6186m) and back to camp 1(5300m)
Day 20A reserve day for bad weather
Day 21Trek to Base camp (4600m)
Day 22Trek to Namche
Day 23Trek to Lukla (2800m) 4-5hrs
Day 24Fly to KTM, evening celebration meal
Day 25Free day in KTM/emergency day if lukla flight cancelled
Day 26Depart for home
Our 6,000m expedition peaks are more challenging than trekking peak climbing trips. Your tough level of fitness is really important for this trip; therefore we strongly suggest preparing yourself in good physical fitness level. You do not need to be an athlete, but a good level of overall fitness is important. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. As an indication, you should be able to walk 8 km / 5 miles with a maximum height gain of 800m/2,000ft with a 10kg rucksack in 5 hours or less.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 5 to 7 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 7kg, 10kg, 13 kg, 16kg and up to 20kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However during climbing, there might be little symptoms of an altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, youneed to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 12 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears.
All of our 6000m expedition trips are accessible to experienced trekkers and those who have done some climbing trips in European mountains in order to take another challenge on the Himalaya's Mountains. This trip will be helpful if you want to gain some knowledge about the mountaineering and have future plan to climb BIG Mountains.
If you have any previous mountaineering experiences and well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t require any technical experience. But if you are participating on one the technical climbing peak then you must have well knowledge about how to use the mountaineering climbing gears (i.e. crampon with boot, Ice axe, harness, ropes, jumars, prussiks, abseiling, moving past knots, anchor etc.).Crampons are use for maximum grip and harness and ropes are use for maximum safety during climbing. But for those who have no mountaineering experience and skill but have gottough level of fitness, , you will be have basic training session by our guides about how to use the climbing gears during rest/acclimatization day. So we always make it sure regarding the safety of the team and successful climb of the peak.
Published on : May 22, 2017
Dream Himalaya Adventures provided exceptional service and support both before and during our expedition to Kyajo Ri (6186m). Dawa looked after all the logistics perfectly, including getting us in and out of Lukla with masses of gear. Their choice of teahouses during the trekking was great-all were comfortable, very friendly and clean (no one was sick in the 3 weeks of trekking and climbing).
The entire staff who travelled with us were exceptional; the porters, cooks and, in particular our climbing sherpas Pasang and Sherku. Not only were they very strong climbers, but their care and humour during both the acclimitisation and camping phases of the trip was fantastic. It was a privilege to have spent time with all these guys. We are very grateful to them and the rest of the team for creating an excellent, happy environment, keeping us well- and well fed-and getting us to 6000m before the weather turned. Kyajo Ri is a breathtaking mountain-and away from the crowds.
I strongly recommend Dream Himalaya Adventures for any trekking or climbing treks in Nepal. You'd be mad not to use them.
Parry Guilford, 38 Riccarton Road East, East Taieri, Dunedin, New Zealand
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