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Kyajo RI Expedition (6,186m) - 26 days

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The Kyajo Ri (6,186m) peak was officially opened for climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism in 2002 and listed on group climbing peak by Nepal Mountaineering Association. The peak is part of the Khumuche Himal, and located in the Gokyo Valley, Mount Everest Region of Nepal. Kyajo Ri is a spectacular, and very beautiful mountain. The first ascent was made the same year by a British & French team. This magnificent peak situated in the middle of the Khumbu region surrounded by impressive summits and fantastic views, including lots of 8,000ers. It has a beautiful, comfortable and quiet base camp, located in a wonderful isolated valley. This Kyajo ri is classified as a "Trekking Peak" which permits a less expensive, less complicated expedition. It is technical without being extreme. The route is free of fixed rope and anchors, retaining its pristine, wild condition. It lacks unacceptable levels of objective hazard. The route faces south, towards the sun and warmth.

Climbing Route & High Camps

Kyajo Ri, the standard ascent via South West Ridge is from base camp at around 4,600 meters to Camp 1 at over 5,300 meters involves a 2 hour hike over a grassy spur and boulders. Camp 1 to Camp 2 involves some technical climbing at French Alpine (AD+) over mixed face slopes up to 55? And the negotiation of a glacier. Camp 2 to the summit at 6,186 meters has been rated at French Alpine Grade D by the previous expedition. It involves a 15 hour return journey over a glacial ridge, with some mixed rock and ice pitches up to 60?.

Kyajo Ri is shorter and technically easier than Ama Dablam, but requiring multiple camps above base camp, rather than being a quick hit from a high camp. If you are looking for a more challenging and 'complete' Himalayan experience than might be gained on some of the popular 'trekking' peaks, this could be it. We aim to climb 'Expedition Style' utilizing fixed ropes.

Journey

This classic trek into the Solu-Khumbu region begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla & continually trekking along the DudhKosi ("Milk River"). After crossing the Namche Bazar “Sherpa head quater” We will gradually make our ascent to Machhermo (4,470m) and Gokyo Lake (4,790m) and climbing the Gokyo Peak (5,360m). After successfully climbing Gokyo Peak, we cross through the Ranjo La Pass, which is one of the breathtaking panoramic viewpoints for the world highest mountains. And we will start to descend and trek to Thame, from where the world-class climbers come from. And to  the hidden valley of Kyajo Kharka accessed via the village of Mende. Two camps are used above Base Camp: Camp 1 at 5,300m and a high camp on a col at 5,700m. From here, the route to the summit is obvious and follows slopes up to 50 - 55 degrees. Team members need previous mountaineering

experience to join the expedition. It is a steeper, more sustained and committing climb than Island Peak or Lobuje East, for example.

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Develop altitude experience and build a foundation for big mountains, and ultimate goal to summit Kyajo RI
  • Climbing on Gokyo-RI (5,360m)
  • Acclimatization trek via Snow Lake ”Gokyo Lake” and over Ranjo Pass (5,360m)

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1

Arrival in KTM (1310m), transfer to hotel & short briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2

Necessary preparation and tours

You will be transferred to our office for documentation work. You will also be introduced with your crew members and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. In the afternoon, half day sightseeing tour will be organized during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel for overnight stay.

Day 3

Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2,652m)35min Flight, 3-4 hrs Trek

We will drive to domestic terminal of Tribhuvan Airport early in the morning and catch a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. We will follow one of the most scenic air routes in the world with panoramic views of glistening mountains to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. Lukla allows access to Everest Khumbu region. We will assemble the crew and take breakfast before start of KyajoRi Expedition. Following the stone path through Ghat village, we will reach Phakding village. Visit local monastery. Stay overnight in Phakding.

Day 4

Trek to Namche (3,440m) 5-6 hrs

Leaving Phakding, we will walk along Dudhkoshi River and enter the dense pine forest. We will cross suspension bridges and walk through dispersed houses of Zapute, Benkar and Chumoa to reach Monjo. Monjo allows an entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. We need to go through required national park formalities before we can enter the park. The park is rich in Himalayan herbs, plants, mammals and birds. We will descend to Hillary Bridge existing at the base of hill. After crossing the bridge, we will follow the escalating path towards Namche Bazaar. The path rewards us with views of Thamserku Mountain, Everest, Lhotse and other mountains and peaks. Stay overnight in Namche Bazaar.

Day 5

Day hike to Khumjung/Khunde (3,800m)3hrs

Namche Bazaar acts as the major trade centre to conduct trade in between locals and neighbouring Tibetans. Namche is also popular as the capital of Sherpa land. It is wise to take rest at Namche on this day. For proper acclimatization with the changing altitude, we can arrange day hike to small Khumjung and Khunde villages. Visit the local monastery and observe the local lifestyle. Head office of National Park, Museum and monasteries are interesting places near Namche. We can get most of the modern facilities including hospital and post office at Namche. Stay overnight in Namche.

Day 6

Trek to Mongla (3,900m) 4-5hrs

Leaving Namche, we will follow the escalating trail to Syangboche Airport and continue walking to Khumjung village which is one of the largest villages in Khumbu region. We will enjoy the spectacular view of Khumbila Peak (5761m) which is located above Khumjung village. Khumbila Peak is considered a sacred peak and the home of guardian gods. So, climbing Khumbila Peak is forbidden. Walking along the lower slopes of Khumbila, we will enter birch forest and move further through grassy slopes to Mongla. The path allows scenic views of Phortse village. Stay overnight in Mongla.

Day 7

Trek to Machhermo (4,410m) 7hrs

We will follow the descending trail along stupa in Mongla to Dudhkoshi River. Crossing the river over bridge at Phortse village, we will climb high above the valley to the ridge which greets us with panoramic views of Kantega peak, Thamserku peak and AmaDablam Mountain. Walking along the tree lines, we will walk past yak kharka at Tongba (4015m) and Gyele (4050m) to Dole (4084m).Following the steep narrow trail escalating uphill, we will reach to the top of ridge. We will walk past Lhabarma (4220m) and reach Luza (4360m). Passing through scrub, we will climb along the side of valley to reach Machhermo (4410m). This area is known as the native land of mythical ape-man Yeti. Locals believe Yeti was seen for the first time in Machhermo in 1974. Few teahouses are available in Machhermo for accommodation. Stay overnight in Machhermo.

Day 8

Trek to Gokyo Lake (4790m) 4-5hrs

Leaving Machhermo, we will walk through DudhKoshi Valley to Gokyo village. The trail leads us to Pangka village (4480m) that greets us with spectacular views of Everest, Thamserku, Nuptse and other peaks and mountains. We will walk through Nepal’s largest Ngozumpa Glacier rejoicing the pleasant views of Kantega Peak and Cho Oyu (8153m). Making our way through moraine and rock, we will get first view of three Gokyo Lakes including Longponga Lake, TabocheTsho Lake and DudhPokhari La. We will descend to the Gokyo village and reach Gokyo Lake for overnight stay.

Day 9

Climb Gokyo RI (5,325m), O/N at Gokyo Lake 4-5hrs

Located at 5360m altitude, GokyoRi is one of the best view points in Everest which allows spectacular views of Everest and three other mountains that are over 8000m feet including Lhotse, Nuptse and Makalu. Capture the amazing image of Gokyo Village at the edge of third lake and return to our camp at Gokyo Lake for overnight stay.

Day 10

Cross over Ranjo Pass (5,360m) and up to Lungden (4,380m) 6hrs

Walking through the valley, we will climb through ice and rock spur and arrive at the base of Renjo La Pass. Renjo La is a difficult Pass to climb. We will reach to the top of Ranjo Pass in about 3-4 hrs which greets us with spectacular views of mountains surroundingSolukhumbu including Majestic Cho Oyu Mountain, Mt Everest, Lhotse Mountain, Nuptse Mountain, Makalu Mountain, Cholatse Peak andTabuche peak. We will descend from the pass and pursue the stone steps downhill to glacial lake. The trail continues through Walking through the path along glacial lake, we will reach small Sandikharka village from where we will head towards Lungden. 

Day 11

Trek to Thame (3,800m) 4hrs

We will take breakfast early in the morning atLungden (4300m) and walk along walled villages of Sherpa ethnics. This is a picturesque path that allows us with an opportunity to view Himalayan wildlife. We will move through the ancient trade route in between Nepal and Tibet to small village of Thame. People from Tibet need to cross Nagpa La Pass to reach Namche Bazaar to trade salt with locals of Khumbu. Stay overnight in Thame.

Day 12

Trek KyajoKharka (3,900m) 4hrs

Thame is a small village that allows scenic views of surrounding Himalaya. We will make short climb to Mende where we will arrive at the junction point. We will depart from the main route and follow the narrow yak trail to the pass. Crossing the pass, we will reach KyajoDrangka valley which is located to the south of KyajoRi. Stay overnight at KyajoKharka. 

Day 13

Kyajo RI Base Camp (4,600m) 3hrs

From KyajoKharka, we will follow the pretty path with views of Thamserku Peak, KusumKangaru Peak, Pacharmo Peak and other peaks and mountains. Short climb from KyajoKharka will take us to the flat surface near river between mountains. We will set our camp and stay overnight at KyajoRi Base Camp.  

Day 14

Rest & Preparations

This is a Rest and Preparation Day. We will begin climbing KyajoRi Peak on the next day. We will pray for the successful climb of KyajoRi. The peak climbing guide will share essential Peak climbing techniques and strategy that Dream Himalaya Adventures follow for the successful ascend. You will learn to use climbing gears like ice axe andcrampons. You will also learn about the thing that you should do if you ever fall into difficult situation. Stay overnight at KyajoRi Base Camp. 

Day 15

Climb to Camp 1 (5300m), Return to base camp (4600m)

Today we plan to carry some loads to Camp 1 at the foot of the glacier. It is a long way, over some pretty rough ground. We will walk through the grassy spur and climb rocky section through boulders and pebbles to reach Camp1. From Camp 1 we have good views of our route to the summit, up the left hand skyline of the mountain. We will return to base camp in the afternoon.

Day 16

Move to Camp 1 (5300m)

Leaving our Base Camp, we will walk through the Glacier section and cross Glacier lakes. We do not need to use crampons on this day. Camp 1 has sufficient place to camp for the group and it is near to the Glacier. We can see the climbing route that we will take on the following day. Following the South West Ridge, we plan to conquer the summit. We pitch our camp near big glacier lake and overnight at camp.

Day 17

Rest day at Camp 1 and Sherpas to fix the route to Camp II (5700m)

We should never hurry to reach to the top since there is sharp difference in altitude in between base and the summit. So, we will take rest for proper acclimatization on this day. Drink plenty of fluid. If you like, you can practice climbing to Camp II or scout the surrounding area. Stay overnight at Camp 1. 

Day 18

Trek to Camp II/Col (5700m)

This isanother challengingday. We will head up to Col for the camp overnight crossing through the glacier & big boulder. The trail leads us through glacier lakes. We need to use crampons and ropes on this day.Once we reach at Col, you will be provided with Basic High Altitude Food. We will prepare for next day climbing and stay overnight at Camp II.

Day 19

Summit day (6186m) and back to camp 1(5300m)

This is the day when we reach to the summit of KyajoRi. Since this is going to be a long trek, we need to begin our trek early at about 3.00 am. Climbing will not be difficult as Sherpas will already have set up the ropes and gears. After light breakfast, we start to climb though the rocky part with big boulders and after a short walk, we will reach at Glacier section from where it is fairly hard to climb. We will be following the southeast route to reach to the summit. After capturing the historic moment in camera and enjoying the epic views of surrounding mountains, we will lower down to Camp 1.

Day 20

A reserve day for bad weather

Including a reserve day in our itinerary makes sure that our trip goes according to plan even if we get delayed by unforeseen circumstances like bad weather and other factors. 

Day 21

Trek to Base camp (4600m)

From Camp 1, we will lower down through rocks and boulders to Base Camp of KyajoRi. Celebrate the successful climbing of KyajoRi in the evening with camp fire.

Day 22

Trek to Namche

Our return trip begins on this day. We will dump the garbage that we had created during our stay properly. Later, we will follow the descending trail back to Namche Bazaar. This is an easy trek as the path is mostly downhill.  Passing through rhododendron forest and Sherpa villages, we will reach Namche for overnight stay. 

Day 23

Trek to Lukla (2800m) 4-5hrs

From Namche, we will lower down to rhododendron forest and walk along Dudhkoshi River to Phakding. Walking past the walled road of Ghat, we will reach Lukla. Stay overnight in Lukla.

Day 24

Fly to KTM, evening celebration meal

We will catch an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. This is rest day. Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal. Stay overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 25

Free day in KTM/emergency day if lukla flight cancelled

Due to the climate condition, delay of flight in Lukla is a common experience. Also, we might lag behind schedule due to unforeseen circumstances. Under such condition, we will catch flight from Lukla to Kathmandu on this day. Returning to Kathmandu, you will be transferred to the hotel. Spend the day as you like. Farewell dinner will be served in the evening.

Day 26

Depart for home

You will be transferred to the Airport three hours before your scheduled flight. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

COST INCLUDES

  • Climbing Royalty fee and all govt. Taxes
  • National Park/Conservation fees
  • 4 nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on twin sharing BB basis
  • KTM – Lukla – KTM, domestic airfares and airport taxes
  • Cargo to & from Lukla for expedition loads
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide
  • Climbing support Sherpas on 1:3 ratios
  • Cook (s) and necessary kitchen staffs
  • Require number of porters and yaks to & from Base Camp (BC)
  • All necessary Climbing hardware gears including fixed ropes
  • All necessary camping and kitchen gears
  • Meals (B/L/D), while trekking using tea houses, camping and climbing period
  • High altitude food for higher camps
  • Best quality single or twin shared tent with sleeping mattress at Base Camp
  • High altitude tents as require
  • Oxygen with the regulator set for medical purpose at BC
  • A group medical kit
  • Walkie-talkie sets
  • Satellite phone for the emergency call purpose (personal calls on payable basis)
  • High camps stoves and gases (EPI gas with burners)
  • Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicles
  • Celebration dinner

COST EXCLUDES

  • Medical/Personal high risk travel insurance
  • Personal climbing gears
  • Major meals in Kathmandu
  • Cost of personal nature expenses
  • Cost of electronic appliances
  • International air ticket and departure tax
  • Tip to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

Fitness
 
Our 6,000m expedition peaks are more challenging than trekking peak climbing trips. Your tough level of fitness is really important for this trip; therefore we strongly suggest preparing yourself in good physical fitness level. You do not need to be an athlete, but a good level of overall fitness is important. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. As an indication, you should be able to walk 8 km / 5 miles with a maximum height gain of 800m/2,000ft with a 10kg rucksack in 5 hours or less.
 
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 5 to 7 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 7kg, 10kg, 13 kg, 16kg and up to 20kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However during climbing, there might be little symptoms of an altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, youneed to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack.  On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 12 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears.
 
Experience Required
 
All of our 6000m expedition trips are accessible to experienced trekkers and those who have done some climbing trips in European mountains in order to take another challenge on the Himalaya's Mountains. This trip will be helpful if you want to gain some knowledge about the mountaineering and have future plan to climb BIG Mountains.
 
If you have any previous mountaineering experiences and well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t require any technical experience. But if you are participating on one the technical climbing peak then you must have well knowledge about how to use the mountaineering climbing gears (i.e. crampon with boot, Ice axe, harness, ropes, jumars, prussiks, abseiling, moving past knots, anchor etc.).Crampons are use for maximum grip and harness and ropes are use for maximum safety during climbing. But for those who have no mountaineering experience and skill but have gottough level of fitness, , you will be have basic training session by our guides about how to use the climbing gears during rest/acclimatization day. So we always make it sure regarding the safety of the team and successful climb of the peak. 

Published on : May 22, 2017

Dream Himalaya Adventures provided exceptional service and support both before and during our expedition to Kyajo Ri  (6186m). Dawa looked after all the logistics perfectly, including getting us in and out of Lukla with masses of gear. Their choice of teahouses during the trekking was great-all were comfortable, very friendly and clean (no one was sick in the 3 weeks of trekking and climbing). 

The entire staff who travelled with us were exceptional; the porters, cooks and, in particular our climbing sherpas Pasang and Sherku. Not only were they very strong climbers, but their care and humour during both the acclimitisation and camping phases of the trip was fantastic.  It was a privilege to have spent time with all these guys. We are very grateful to them and the rest of the team for creating an excellent, happy environment, keeping us well- and well fed-and getting us to 6000m before the weather turned. Kyajo Ri is a breathtaking mountain-and away from the crowds.

I strongly recommend Dream Himalaya Adventures for any trekking or climbing treks in Nepal.  You'd be mad not to use them.
 

Parry Guilford, 38 Riccarton Road East, East Taieri, Dunedin, New Zealand

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Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/PC/KE-26
Grade:
Best Month of the Year : April, May, October and November
Trekking Duration: 21 days
Hotel Accommodation : 4 Nights 3 Star Twin Shared BB
Trek Type : 11 nights at teahouse & 10 nights at camp
Maximum Elevation : 6,186M.
Destination: : Nepal

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