(An acclimatization trip to Mera Peak (6,476m)
The potential for climbing "East of Everest" was first recognised by members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, which made a journey of exploration into the region. Three years later, in 1954, members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, including Edmund Hillary and George Lowe, returned to exploit the climbing potential to the full. Although their prime aim was to explore Makalu, in a concerted effort of peak bagging around the upper Barun Glacier, this team made no fewer than 20 first ascents of which Baruntse was the most significant. The first ascent of Baruntse was been made. They climbed the mountain by the South-East Ridge, which will be the line of our ascent.
An ascent on Baruntse (23,390ft / 7,129m) is an adventure for climbers wishing to summit a true Nepal Himalaya peak. This remote expedition into the heart of the Khumbu culminates in a relatively short climb to the summit of this majestic 7,000m peak. Baruntse is among some of the highest peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and AmaDablam, and this expedition rewards you with spectacular views throughout.
Mt. Baruntse expedition trip also encompasses a climb of Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft) as acclimatistion on the long approach trek to Base Camp and a crossing of the Ambulapcha Pass on the return.
This trip is an opportunity to experience non- technical climbing at moderate to high altitude, and whilst not being an 8,000 metre peak, the climb incorporates a lot of the components of 8000m peak climbing and can be regarded as a good training peak for higher objectives. In addition to the climbing, the expedition visits a remote part of Nepal with stunning Himalayan views and exciting local culture.
Climbing Route and High Camps
We'll establish Base Camp just above the five holy lakes "Panch Pokhari" at 5,400m and two higher camps on the mountain. We'll ascend the 6,100m West Col before establishing Camp 1 (6,150m), where the long ridge leading to the summit is clearly visible. We establish our Camp II at the altitude of 6,400m from where we ascent the peak and turn back to Camp I, which takes about 10/11 hours. The climb from CI to CII follows steepening slopes to a small col and takes about 4/5 hours. A tricky step at around 7,000m adds further spice to the climb. The route is generally a straightforward snow and ice climb and not technically demanding.
After preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly direct to Lukla and begin the trek into the Hinku Valley, enjoying Sherpa country at its finest. The hike-in provides for excellent acclimatization as we head northward through the pristine alpine environment. On the way to Baruntse BC.We slowly make our way south through the terraced fields that line the DuhdKosi to Piuyan and on to Pangum, and continue for 8 days to reach at base camp of Mera Peak/Khare and climbing on Mera Peak starts, 1st night to Mera La, 2nd to High Camp and Summit of the peak and continue descent and walk to next side to KongmaDingma. Trek continue to base camp of Batunse via hunku valley and Sherpas start to carry the loads to the higher camps and acclimatization climbing to the higher camps will also happen simultaneously. On the return way to Lukla, we will trek through a challenging and stunning view point, Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,845m) and goes through the lower part of the Everest region, this will give you chance to see and experience the Sherpas cultures and traditions.
Any expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs and lungs.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, youneed to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack.On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears.
This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined withiceand skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching thesummit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory butdoesn’t really require any extreme technical experience.
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