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Mt. Everest Expedition South (8848m) - 65 days

Mt. Everest
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Mt. Everest, rising 8,848m (29,028ft) above sea level is the highest mountain on Earth. For decades summiting Everest has been considered one of the greatest mountaineering achievements. In the spring of each year, we embrace this intense challenge by taking a group of qualified climbers to Nepal and Tibet to climb Mt. Everest via the South Col and North Col route respectively. The South Col was the first successfully climbed route on Mt. Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, accomplished this feat in May 29th, 1953. Since then, few thousand climbers stand on the summit of Mt. Everest. It’s the most climbed and the high possibility of success route on the mountain.

Dream Himalaya Adventures has been running successful Himalayan expeditions to the Himalayas of Nepal & Tibet. We support full board expedition services up the summit and to the advance base camp as well. We are committed to provide you with the best quality services and experience to help you reach your goal. However, all the climbing members must have considerable climbing experience at higher altitudes, preferably in the Himalayas.
 
Our Sherpas are highly qualified, experienced and multiple times Everest summiteers and they have high reputation with excellent success rates with safety of client as number one priority. All members will be assisted by our well experienced Sherpas at the ratio of 1:1 and there will be a manager at base camp to assist the team and also act as a liaison between climbers and the Sherpas.

Camp I – 5,945 meters

After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.  Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall or by Sherpas in advance.
The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm.  As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000ft, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp.  Nonetheless, modern communication devices permit the parties to stay in contact.

Camp II – 6,402 meters

As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920ft mountain bordering Everest).  The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall.  Though not technically extremely difficult, one miss-step or slip could mean a climber's life.  Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps. 

Camp III - 23,500 feet (7,164 meters)

To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)

As you’re leaving C4, it’s a little bit of a down slope with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it’s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you’re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it’s easier to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges, which aren’t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

Camp IV, which is at 26,300ft on the South Col, is typically the climbers' first overnight stay in the Death Zone.  The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.  Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone."  The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur.  Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above.  Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.
Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push.  It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations.  It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not).  Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet.  The Hillary Step, an over 70 feet rock step is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953 along with Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, became the first people to summit Everest.  The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes often, becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time. Though, the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers.
 
Climbing Routes & High Camps
 
After final preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly to Lukla and begins our 7 days teahouse trek in the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp. We will ascent the peak via normal route (South East route), establish our base camp at ~5300m at the foot of the notorious Khumbu Icefall before making our way to Camp-1 at 6,000m. We'll climb to Camp-2 at 6,400m smack in the middle of the Western Cwm, up the Lhotse face to Camp-3 at 7200m. Finally, we'll head up the South Col to Camp-4 at ~8000m before making our summit push.

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Expedition will be finished after summiting the Mt Everest
  • Expert & experienced cook and crew
  • Fully medical back up and emergency communication call facilities
  • Excellent logistics at base camp with carpeted dinning along with heaters.
  • KTM – LUKLA - KTM, a nice & spectacular mountain flight
  • A life changing trek to Everest base camp
  • 1:1 Personal Climbing Sherpa to each climber
  • Participation on the longest Himalaya expedition (65 days)
  • Climb the world’s highest peak, Mt.Everest with already summitted Sherpa Guides

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1

Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2

Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

Day 3

Kathmandu; final preparation and packing

This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition.   

Day 4

Fly to Lukla (2840m); trek to Phakding (2610m) 40min flight, 3-4hrs

We will drive to domestic terminal of Tribhuvan Airport early in the morning and catch a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. We will follow one of the most scenic air routes in the world with panoramic views of glistening mountains to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. Lukla allows access to Everest Khumbu region. We will assemble the crew and take breakfast before start of Mount Everest Expedition. Following the stone path through Ghat village, we will reach Phakding village. Visit local monastery. Stay overnight in Phakding.

Day 5

Trek Namche Bazar (3,440m); visit to museum 5-6hrs

Leaving Phakding, we will walk along Dudhkoshi River and enter the dense pine forest. We will cross suspension bridges and walk through dispersed houses of Zapute, Benkar and Chumoa to reach Monjo. Monjo allows an entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. We need to go through required national park formalities before we can enter the park. The park is rich in Himalayan herbs, plants, mammals and birds. We will descend to Hillary Bridge existing at the base of hill. After crossing the bridge, we will follow the escalating path towards Namche Bazaar. The path rewards us with views of Thamserku Mountain, Everest, Lhotse and other mountains and peaks. We will visit Sherpa Culture Museum in Namche where we can observe Himalayan lifestyle and cultural artefacts. Stay overnight in Namche Bazaar.

Day 6

Day hikes - Khumjung, Khunde (3840m)

Namche Bazaar acts as the major trade centre to conduct trade in between locals and neighbouring Tibetans. Namche is also popular as the capital of Sherpa land. It is wise to take rest at Namche on this day. For proper acclimatization with the changing altitude, we can arrange day hike to small Khumjung and Khunde villages. Visit the local monastery and observe the local lifestyle. Head office of National Park, Museum and monasteries are interesting places near Namche. We can get most of the modern facilities including hospital and post office at Namche. Stay overnight in Namche.

Day 7

Day hikes – Thame village 4-5hrs

Moving through the western Khumbu region, we will follow the scenic path that allows views of Himalayan wildlife. Thame is located at bit higher altitude than from Namche. It is a brief walk from Namche to Thame. Enjoy walking along yak caravans to and from Thame. This pretty village is popular among mountain climbers. We will visit Thame School in the afternoon. Explore around Thame and stay overnight.

Day 8

Trek Tengboche (3,860m); visit monastery 5hrs

The trail continues along glaciated DudhKoshi River from Namche. We will follow the scenic route with views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and other peaks and mountains and enter the forest area. Walking through the colourful rhododendron forest, we can get opportunity to view musk deer and colourful Himalayn birds like Danphe and Munal. We will move further to Sanasa village. The trail branches at Sanasa. We will follow the main trail towards Everest Base Camp. Following the escalating path from Sanasa, we will reach Tengboche. Gate of Tengboche Monastery is open after 3pm. We will visit Tengboche Monastery which is the largest monastery in the region.

Day 9

Trek Dengboche (4,410m) in the ChhukungValley, beautiful views throughout

Leaving Tengboche, we will enter the birch and rhododendron forest. In couple of hours, we will reach Debuche from where we will lower down to beautiful Chhukung Valley. We will descend to Imja River and follow the raised path to Pangboche. Monastery is Pangboche is believed to be the oldest Monastery in the region. Walking along the Mani walls, we will climb to Pheriche. Walking along Lobuche River, we will reach Dengboche village. Stay overnight in Dengboche.

Day 10

Day hikes to NagarjunPeak (52,00m) 5hrs

Taking rest from trek at Dengboche helps to break the stress. It also helps in proper acclimatization. We will take short walk to Nagarjuna View Point located at Nagarjuna Peak. Enjoy the 360 degree mountain views of Makalu, Lhotse, Amadablam, Island Peak and other mountains. We will return to Dengboche for staying overnight.     

Day 11

Trek to Lobuche (4,910m) 4hrs

From Dengboche, we will return to Pheriche. The trail continues through Dugla to the steep moraine of Khumbu glacier. We will head towards ChupkiLhara which is the memorial site for renowned climber BabuChhiri Sherpa. ChupkiLhara is decorated with prayer flags. Walking through the Khumbu glacier moraine, we will reach Lobuche. Enjoy the panoramic views of Pumori Peak, Khumbutse Peak and other peaks and mountains. Stay overnight in Lobuche.

Day 12

Trek to Gorakshep (5,150m) 3hrs

From Lobuche, we will follow short and easy path to Gorakshep. Once vast, the lake has shrunk significantly lately. Stay overnight at the bank of GorakShep Lake.

Day 13

Trek to Everest Base Camp (5364m) 5-6hrs

The trail stretches through levelled path from Gorakshep to the Indian army mountaineers' memorials. Although levelled, the path is tricky as it is made slippery by the glaciers. Also, the challenges is added by the increased altitude and presence of thin air. Walking past the rocky dunes and moraines, we will reach Everest Base Camp. We will enjoy the views of Nuptse, Khumbutse and other peaks and mountains. Stay overnight at Everest Base Camp. 

Day 14-37

Acclimatization, load ferries/route opening

We will spend these days in proper acclimatizationup to Camp III.We can scout the surrounding area while Sherpas fix cables and ladders in the Everest climbing route wherever necessary and the load will be transferred to high camps. We do 1st rotation to Camp II sleeping overnight at Camp I, after spending one or two nights at Camp II, we descend to Base Camp. Now Sherpas do few load ferries to Camp II and also to Camp III, after spending few relaxing days/nights at Base Camp, now we go for 2nd rotation up to Camp III and it will be the final acclimatization and rotation program and we descend down to Base Camp and do further planning and discussions. 

Day 38-45

Trek out and rest at the lower villages, Debouche

These are preparation days. Frequent ascend and descend of higher camps will be made in order to properly acclimatize ourselves to the increasing altitude. We will trek down to Debuchevillage at the lower altitude for the better feeding and sleeping

Day 46-57

Climbing up to camp IV, Summit Push

Base Camp to Camp I(5945m)and continue to Camp II (6402m) 8 to 10 hours
We will prepare for climbing Everest early in the morning. We will choose the southeast route and walk through moraines and climb 60degree slopes to reach Camp1 which is locatedjust above the Khumbu icefall. Leaving Camp I, we will progress through Western Cwm to Camp II.
Camp II to Camp III (7164m)
From Camp II, we will head towards Lhotse face. It takes about 6/7 hours to reach at Camp III from II; we sleep at Camp III on Oxygen on low pressure.
Camp III to Camp IV (8000m)
Leaving Camp III, we will move to Camp IV that is located at South Col. We will climb the slope with help of fixed rope and crampon. We climb from Camp III onwards with Oxygen. Normally it takes about 6 to 8 hours to reach at Camp IV.
Camp IV to summit (8848m)
This is the last camp before we reach summit. We will make final preparation for climbing to the summit at this camp. Double-checking with the weather forecast, if low wind pressure, we normally start from Camp IV for the final summit push about 7/8 pm. Climbing Hillary Step at 28,800ft, we will try to reach on the summit early in the morning. We will enjoy the breath-taking views of surrounding peaks, mountains and valley from summit andafter taking some pictures/videos andwe start lower down to the South Col for the overnight. The next day we climb down to Camp II and the following day to Base Camp.  

Day 58-59

Base camp

We will clear the base camp and celebrate successful climb of Everest.

Day 60

Trek to Pheriche 6hrs

Early in the morning, we will leave Base Camp of Everest and follow the descending trail to Lobuche. Walking past Lobuche, we will descend to Pheriche village. This is a small Sherpa village located below Lobuche Mountain. We will visit ancient PhericheMonastery.Stay overnight at Pheriche. 

Day 61

Trek to Namche 5hrs

After following the easy descending trail through rhododendron forest to Dudhkoshi River, we will walk past tapered gorges and once again follow the trail through forest area that is rich in Himalayan wildlife. Once we arrive at Sanasa, we will enjoy the view of Amadablam Mountain. Walking through the forested edge beyond Kyangjuma, we will reach Namche. Enjoy the views of Everest, Tengboche and other peaks and mountains. Stay overnight at Namche.

Day 62

Trek to Lukla 6hrs

From Namche, we will lower down to rhododendron forest and walk along Dudhkoshi River to Phakding. Walking past the walled road of Ghat, we will reach Lukla. Stay overnight in Lukla.

Day 63

: Fly back to Kathmandu

We will catch an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. This is rest day. Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal. Stay overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 64

Free day in Kathmandu

Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal.

Day 65

Fly back to home

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

COST INCLUDES

  • Mt Everest Climbing Permit and all government taxes
  • National park permit fees
  • Khumbu Ice Fall Charges
  • Liaison officer wages, allowances and insurance
  • 5 (five) nights, 5 star hotel deluxe accommodation on single room BB basis
  • Food, hot drinks, accommodation during staying at tea houses including those 8 nights at teahouses when you go for rest before summit push
  • All internal flights with departure taxes
  • Cargo to & from Lukla of expedition loads
  • Client’s excess baggage to & from Lukla
  • Porters/Yaks to carry expedition loads to & from Base Camp (BC)
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar for the team
  • Experienced & Professional high altitude personal climbing Sherpa on 1:1 ratio
  • Experienced & Professional high altitude personal climbing Sherpa on 1:1 ratio
  • Permanent kitchen facilities at Camp II
  • Quality single tent to each client at BC with sleeping mattress
  • Quality carpeted dinning tent with heater at BC
  • All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
  • Shower facility at base camp
  • Quality high altitude tents for the higher camps
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears including the ropes
  • Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
  • EPI gases with burner for high camps
  • POISK 4 liter Oxygen (06 cylinders Per Client & 03 cylinders Per Sherpa)
  • Mask and Regulator to each client (to be retuned after expedition)
  • Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base at BC
  • Satellite phone for the emergency call (Personal call on payable basis)
  • Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
  • Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
  • Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
  • DHA duffel bags to each client
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
  • Insurance of local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
  • Half day city tours in Kathmandu
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu

COST EXCLUDES

  • High altitude coverage travel insurance
  • International Air ticket & any departures taxes
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
  • Cost of personal natures of expenses
  • Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.
Fitness

Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills. Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours up to 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 16 hours.
 
Experience

Dream Himalaya Adventures strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peaks i.e. Mt. Amadablam, or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and dealing with the cold. Now to get more familiar with 8,000m altitude and extreme cold temperature, we highly recommend our clients  to climb one of our expedition to 8000m mountains, i.e. Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) or any other over 8,000m mountain, where working with Sherpas, the use of fixed ropes and oxygen equipment are pretty much associated with. With this experience on your side, you will be ready to attempt the Mt. Everest. If you do so, our experience shows that those who have done expedition with us have significantly increased the success rates. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
 
You must have well knowledge about the usage of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching the summit and also the previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience.
 

Published on : March 02, 2017

I had the opportunity to climb with Dawa and Dream Himalaya during my successful ascent of Everest in May 2016. During the preparation for the Expedition I found Dawa and his team to be responsive to questions and assist in all facets of the necessary planning.

Upon arrival in Nepal, Dawa was constantly available and provided an exceptionally high level of service and support. During the Expedition he continued to provide strong logistical services and remained available to assist with any issues. The work of Dawa and his team was fundamental in us having a successful and safe ascent of Everest.

I would have no hesitation recommending Dream Himalaya as a company to organise an Expedition with. His level of service was exceptional and exceeded my expectations at almost every opportunity.  Dawa is professional, diligent but also a wonderful person to work with.
 

Dr. J Roth, Australia

65 days
USD 36500
Download Trip Info

Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/M/EX/SR-65
Grade:
Best Month of the Year : April & May
Trekking Duration: 45 days
Hotel Accommodation : 6 nights, 5 star hotel
Trek Type : Tea House
Maximum Elevation : 8,848M.
Destination: : Nepal

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