There are two major ways to start the Expedition, first one is flying directly to the beautiful & traditional city, Lhasa, and the second option is to drive from KTM via Zangmu/Nyalam, Tingri & base camp (5,200m). A visit to Lhasa, the overland journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Mt.Everest are the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will also give a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers. After reaching at the base camp, you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. In order to start your real climbing toward the summit, you should start your expedition ahead towards two middle camps, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews.
Then you have to take a night’s rest in each middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6,400m. From ABC, after couple of days rest, acclimatize at ABC and Sherpas can fixed up the ropes to wards to North Col. The route is initially straight forward trail up moraine to the East Rongbuk which leads to the fixed ropes and it takes 6-7 hours to reach at the North Col from ABC.NorthCol, which is also called camp, I of Mt Everest expedition is large area from where we can see the fantastic views of North Ridge of Mt Everest, Mt Cho Oyu and other mountains. Once we complete climbing to the North Col, we descent to the ABC and to Base Camp and make way return to border and KTM.
High Camps and Climbing Routes
We will establish our base camp at ~5200m at a big ground above Rongbuk before making our way to high camps and Advance Base Camp. Once our acclimatization in and around base camp will be completed, then we'll start our summit bit establishing two middle camps in between BC & ABC, i.e. Camp 1 at altitude of 5,460m, Changtse Base Camp at (6,008m) and our trek continues for Advance Base Camp, where we do our preparations and acclimatization “go higher and sleep at lower”. Once we are ready then we go for the summit attempt and same day descent all the way to ABC, which takes about 10 – 12 hours. Climbing up to the summit of NorthCol is not technically difficult, but general knowledge to play with the climbing gears is helpful and high level of fitness is required.
After final preparations in Kathmandu, we will drive by private bus from Kathmandu to Kodari (a small border town). Complete necessary immigration formalities and cross the Chinese border and drive to Zangmu by land cruiser/bus. We will drive all the way to Base Camp spending 5 days time, which includes acclimatization days at Nyalam & Tingri.
If the trip is planned to flight to Lhasa then, we spent about 3 nights, 2 full days in Lhasa doing some sight seen tours and acclimatization. From Lhasa, we will take drive by land cruise or by bus for Base Camp spending about 4/5 days and this will give us additional opportunity to explore the land of Tibet and visiting ancient cities of Tibet i.e. Gyantse (3990m), Shegar (4050m) and Shigatse (3,860m).
Day 1Arrive in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel& Briefing
Day 2Kathmandu Tour, Equipment Check & Last minute preparation
Day 3Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (3660m), O/N hotel
Day 4-5Sightseeing in Lhasa (3,660m)
Day 6Drive to Shigatse (3,900m) 280 km
Day 7Drive to Shegar (4,050m) 244km
Day 8Rest day at Shegar for acclimatizations
Day 9Drive to Rongbuk (5,000m) 68km, Trek to Base Camp (5,200m)
Day 10-11Acclimatization at Base Camp
Day 12Trek to Camp 1 (5,460m)
Day 13Trek to Changtse Base Camp (5800m)
Day 14Trek to Advanced Base Camp - ABC (6400m)
Day 15-16Rest and acclimatization
Day 17Climb close to NorthCol and return to ABC
Day 18Acclimatization and final preparation for summit attempt
Day 19Ascend to North Col (7066m)
Day 20Emergency day summit attempt
Day 21Return to Base Camp
Day 22Drive Shigatse
Day 23Drive to Lhasa
Day 24Fly to Kathmandu
Day 25Free day in Kathmandu
Day 26Depart for Int’l flight to home
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours up to 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 16 hours.
Dream Himalaya Adventuresstrongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peaks i.e. Mt. Amadablam,or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and dealing with the cold. Now to get more familiar with 8,000m altitude and extreme cold temperature, we highly recommend our clients to climb one of our expedition to 8000m mountains, i.e. Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) or any other over 8,000m mountain, where working with Sherpas, the use of fixed ropes and oxygen equipment are pretty much associated with. With this experience on your side, you will be ready to attempt the Mt. Everest. If you do so, our experience shows that those who have done expedition with us have significantly increasedthe success rates. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about the usage of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso the previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience.
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