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Mt. Everest North Col Expedition (7,041m) - 26 days

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There are two major ways to start the Expedition, first one is flying directly to the beautiful & traditional city, Lhasa, and the second option is to drive from KTM via Zangmu/Nyalam, Tingri & base camp (5,200m). A visit to Lhasa, the overland journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Mt.Everest are the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will also give a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers. After reaching at the base camp, you have to spend a few days for acclimatization.  In order to start your real climbing toward the summit, you should start your expedition ahead towards two middle camps, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews.

Then you have to take a night’s rest in each middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6,400m. From ABC, after couple of days rest, acclimatize at ABC and Sherpas can fixed up the ropes to wards to North Col. The route is initially straight forward trail up moraine to the East Rongbuk which leads to the fixed ropes and it takes 6-7 hours to reach at the North Col from ABC.NorthCol, which is also called camp, I of Mt Everest expedition is large area from where we can see the fantastic views of North Ridge of Mt Everest, Mt Cho Oyu and other mountains. Once we complete climbing to the North Col, we descent to the ABC and to Base Camp and make way return to border and KTM.    

High Camps and Climbing Routes 

We will establish our base camp at ~5200m at a big ground above Rongbuk before making our way to high camps and Advance Base Camp. Once our acclimatization in and around base camp will be completed, then we'll start our summit bit establishing two middle camps in between BC & ABC, i.e. Camp 1 at altitude of 5,460m, Changtse Base Camp at (6,008m) and our trek continues for Advance Base Camp, where we do our preparations and acclimatization “go higher and sleep at lower”. Once we are ready then we go for the summit attempt and same day descent all the way to ABC, which takes about 10 – 12 hours. Climbing up to the summit of NorthCol is not technically difficult, but general knowledge to play with the climbing gears is helpful and high level of fitness is required.    

Journey 

After final preparations in Kathmandu, we will drive by private bus from Kathmandu to Kodari (a small border town). Complete necessary immigration formalities and cross the Chinese border and drive to Zangmu by land cruiser/bus. We will drive all the way to Base Camp spending 5 days time, which includes acclimatization days at Nyalam & Tingri.

 If the trip is planned to flight to Lhasa then, we spent about 3 nights, 2 full days in Lhasa doing some sight seen tours and acclimatization. From Lhasa, we will take drive by land cruise or by bus for Base Camp spending about 4/5 days and this will give us additional opportunity to explore the land of Tibet and visiting ancient cities of Tibet i.e. Gyantse (3990m), Shegar (4050m) and Shigatse (3,860m).  

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Expedition will be finished after summiting the Mt. Everest North Col
  • Expert & experienced cook and crews
  • Excellent logistics facilities
  • Medical back up Oxygen and Gamow bag at base camp
  • Explore the ancient and culturally & traditionally rich cities of Tibet
  • An unforgettable and amazing trek into the North Mt. Everest Base Camp
  • Climb up to the Camp I of Mt. Everest North Ridge(7,041m), with professional and Everest summited Sherpas

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1

Arrive in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel& Briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2

Kathmandu Tour, Equipment Check & Last minute preparation

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

Day 3

Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (3660m), O/N hotel

You will be picked up from the hotel and transferred to Tribhuvan International Airport. Remember to carry your Tibet Permit and Visit Visa papers. Almost 70 minutes of flight over Everest and other mountains will take you to Lhasa Gonggar Airport. You will take a ride in 4WD vehicle to cover 60km distance along Friendship Highway to Lhasa City. Stay overnight in a hotel in Lhasa. 

Day 4-5

Sightseeing in Lhasa (3,660m)

Lhasa is located on the northern edge of Kyi Chu River. Lhasa is the spiritual centre of Tibet. We will visit Potala Palace, Ramoche Monastery andNorbulingka Palace. Potala Palace is the home of Dalai Lama which was built in 637 AD. Norbulinkha is the summer palace of Dalai Lama which has been identified as the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sera Monastery andJokhang Monastery are other places of interest in Lhasa.

Day 6

Drive to Shigatse (3,900m) 280 km

Leaving Lhasa, we will cross Kamba La (4794m) and Karo La (5010m) Pass. The path is scenic and allows view of beautiful Yamadroke-Tso Lake while nreath-taking views of surrounding mountains can be viewed to the south. We will reach Gynatse. Khumbum Stupa and Palkor Monastery are places of interest in Gyantse. We will continue to drive to Shigatse (Xigatse) and reach there in about two hours from Gyantse. We will visit Panchen Lamas’ Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse. 

Day 7

Drive to Shegar (4,050m) 244km

Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatselies in the base of Dolmari. This monastery was built in 1477 by Gendun Drukpa and the monastery holds the Maitreya Chapel which holds the largest Brass statue of Buddha. We will drive for 4 hours to reach Shegar. Shegar is close to Everest Base Camp. We will stay overnight at Shegar

Day 8

Rest day at Shegar for acclimatizations

Take a day of rest at Shegar. It will help us in proper acclimatization to the increasing altitude. We can explore Shegar town on this day. Local Monastery and a fort is attraction in Shegar. Stay overnight at Shegar. 

Day 9

Drive to Rongbuk (5,000m) 68km, Trek to Base Camp (5,200m)

After an early breakfast, we will leave Shegarand head towards Base Camp. We will cross the Pang La pass. Reaching to the top of Pang La is an exciting activity. We will enjoy the view of vast Tibetan plateau and Everest Mountain from the summit before continuing our journey to Base Camp where we will stay overnight.   

Day 10-11

Acclimatization at Base Camp

Acclimatization is necessary at this altitude to avoid altitude sickness. We will explore around base camp. We will practice using climbing gears and scout the route towards Camp1. Stay overnight at Everest Base Camp.

Day 12

Trek to Camp 1 (5,460m)

After a full day of rest, we will collect our gears and follow the trail that continues along Rongbuk Glacier. After some time, the trail escalates up through the eastern edge of the glacier and reach Camp1. Camp1 will be located below a large yellow rock. We can get spectacular view of Pumori Mountain from Camp1. 

Day 13

Trek to Changtse Base Camp (5800m)

Leaving Camp1, we will follow the gradually climbing trail. The trail become steep as we reach to higher altitude. We can get spectacular views of Pumori, Nuptse and amazing mountain valleys as we arrive at Changtse Base Camp. Changtse exists to the north of Everest. Changtse in Tibetan language means 'North Peak'. After technical climbing, we will reach Changtse Base Camp where we will stay overnight.

Day 14

Trek to Advanced Base Camp - ABC (6400m)

We will leave Changste Base Camp and move towards Advanced Base Camp which is located at 6,400 m. We can get close-up view of Everest and LhakpaRi Mountain from the Advance Base Camp. The trail continues through ice seracs. This requires a bit technical climbing skill.   

Day 15-16

Rest and acclimatization

We will prepare ourselves for upcoming climbing. We will practice using climbing gears and scout the way. We can return to lower altitude for acclimatization. Take plenty of fluids.

Day 17

Climb close to NorthCol and return to ABC

The North Col Camp is a 2,200m climb from AdavncedBase Camp. Leaving the Camp, we will move towards East Rongbuk Glacier. We need to use crampons and fixed ropes on this day. Climb from Advanced Base Camp to North Col constantly gains altitude. We will cross the steep section of 60 degrees with help of fixed rope and ascender. Ladders will be used to cross deep crevasses. We will reach close to North Col in almost 7hours. 

Day 18

Acclimatization and final preparation for summit attempt

We will prepare ourselves to climb to North Col. Practice using climbing gears and scout the route. We can return to lower altitude for acclimatization. Listen to the instructions which your guide offer. 

Day 19

Ascend to North Col (7066m)

We need to climb almost 2200m elevation to reach to the North Col camp. Leaving our Camp, we will follow the East Rongbuk Glacier.We will cross the steep section of 60 degrees slope with help of fixed rope and ascender. Ladders will be used to cross deep crevasses. We will reach North Col. The views from the top of North Colis simply exhilarating. 

Day 20

Emergency day summit attempt

Weather plays key role on expedition. So, this is a spare day added in the itinerary so that we can stick to the plan even if we cannot climb to North Col on the previous day due to bad weather or other unforeseen circumstances. 

Day 21

Return to Base Camp

We will take a long and tiring descend from Camp1 to the base camp. Altitude at Base Camp is more comfortable to us. 

Day 22

Drive Shigatse

Leaving Base Camp, we drive to straight to Shigatse about 350km, and stay at guesthouses for the night. 

Day 23

Drive to Lhasa

From Shigatse, we drive to Lhasa about 350km and stay at hotel for the over night and get ready for the next day flight to Kathmandu. 

Day 24

Fly to Kathmandu

We fly to Kathmandu and our representative from KTM airport and transfer to hotel will pick you up. Free afternoon and evening  

Day 25

Free day in Kathmandu

Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal.

Day 26

Depart for Int’l flight to home

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

COST INCLUDES

  • Climbing Permit, and all government taxes
  • Group Chinese visa fee
  • Chinese custom clearances at the border
  • Private transport from Katmandu to border, to Base Camp & return
  • Truck to carry expedition loads to & from BC
  • Full board accommodation (B/L/D) en-route to & from BC
  • Chinese Liaison officer& interpreter
  • Liaison officer wages, allowances and insurance
  • 04 (four) nights, 3star hotel accommodation on twin shared room BB basis
  • BC – Advance Base Camp – BC, yaks to carry the loads
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
  • Experienced & Professional high altitude personal climbing Sherpa on 1:3 ratio
  • Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
  • Quality single/twin shared tentto each client with sleeping mattress
  • Quality dinning tent
  • All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
  • Quality high altitude tents for the higher camps
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears including the ropes
  • Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
  • EPI gases with burner for high camps
  • Walkie-talkie set
  • Satellite phone for the emergency call (Personal call on payable basis)
  • Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
  • Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
  • Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
  • DHA duffel bags to each client
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
  • Insurance of local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
  • Half day city tours in Kathmandu
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu

COST EXCLUDES

  • High altitude coverage travel insurance
  • International Air ticket & any departures taxes
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
  • Cost of personal natures of expenses
  • Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

Fitness
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours up to 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 16 hours.
 
Experience Require

Dream Himalaya Adventuresstrongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peaks i.e. Mt. Amadablam,or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and dealing with the cold. Now to get more familiar with 8,000m altitude and extreme cold temperature, we highly recommend our clients  to climb one of our expedition to 8000m mountains, i.e. Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) or any other over 8,000m mountain, where working with Sherpas, the use of fixed ropes and oxygen equipment are pretty much associated with. With this experience on your side, you will be ready to attempt the Mt. Everest. If you do so, our experience shows that those who have done expedition with us have significantly increasedthe success rates. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
 
You must have well knowledge about the usage of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso the previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience.

Download Trip Info

Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/M/NCX-26
Grade:
Best Month of the Year : April, May, Sep and Oct
Hotel Accommodation : 4 night single room basis
Maximum Elevation : 7,041M.
Destination: : Tibet

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