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Mt. Lhakpa-Ri Expedition (7,045m) - 25 days

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Mt. LHAKPA-RI (7,045m/23,000ft) is one of the major mountaineering destinations in Tibet.  It is very close toMount Everest. George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921 first climbed it and he had seen its North Col. Expedition mountaineering teams still follow the same route in order to make the summit. The summit view from Lhakpa-Ri rivals that from many of the world's greatest mountains. It gives very unusual views of some of the world's best-known mountains and excellent views of some very little known mountains. 

Mt. Lakpa Ri is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world. It's an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route. 

There are two major ways to start the expedition, one, you fly to the beautiful & traditional city Lhasa and another way is via a drive from Kathmandu and Zangmu/Naylam, Tingri & Base Camp (5200m). The visits to Lhasa, the overland journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Everest, are the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will also give you a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers. After reaching the base camp, you have to spend few days for acclimatization.  In order to start your real climb toward the summit, you should start your expedition ahead towards the two middle camps, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Continuing ahead on this track you reach the Advance Base Camp, which is situated at a height of 6400m. From ABC, start early in the morning; and continue crossing the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhakpa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa-Ri until you reach the very foot of the slope, leading you to the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20-30 degree vertical elevations. This route is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. Follow the way of the North ridge and on the other side you will see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa-Ri 

High Camps and Climbing Routes

We will establish our base camp at ~5200m at a big ground above Rongbuk before making our way to high camps and Advance Base Camp. Once our acclimatization in and around base camp will be completed, then we'll start our summit bit establishing two middle camps in between BC & ABC, i.e. Camp 1 at altitude of 5,460m, Changtse Base Camp at (6,008m) and our trek continues for Advance Base Camp, where we do our preparations and acclimatization “go higher and sleep at lower”. Once we are ready then we go for the summit attempt and same day descent all the way to ABC, which takes about 10 – 12 hours. Climbing up to the summit of Lakpa-RI is not technically difficult, but general knowledge to play with the climbing gears is helpful and high level of fitness is required.    

Journey

After final preparations in Kathmandu, we will drive by private bus from Kathmandu to Kodari (a small border town). Complete necessary immigration formalities and cross the Chinese border and drive to Zangmu by land cruiser/bus. We will drive all the way to Base Camp spending 5 days time, which includes acclimatization days at Naylam & Tingri. 

If the trip is planned to fly direct to Lhasa then, we spend about 3 nights, 2 full days in Lhasa doing some sight seen tours and acclimatization. From Lhasa, we will take a drive by land cruiser or by bus for Base Camp, spending about 4/5 days and this will give us additional opportunity to explore the land of Tibet and visiting ancient cities of Tibet i.e. Gyantse (3990m), Shegar (4050m) and Shigatse (3,860m).  

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Expedition will be finished after summiting the Mt Lakpa-RI
  • Expert & experienced cook and crews
  • Excellent logistics facilities
  • Medical back up with Oxygen and Gamow bag round the trip
  • Explore the ancient and culturally & traditionally rich cities of Tibet
  • An unforgettable and amazing trek into the North Mt. Everest Base Camp
  • Climb one of the famous and climbable 7,000m peak in Tibet, with professional and Everest summited Sherpas

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1

Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel& briefing

When you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2

Tours, equipment checks and last minute preparation

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

Day 3

Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (3660m), O/N hotel

You will be picked up from the hotel and transferred to Tribhuvan International Airport. Remember to carry your Tibet Permit and Visit Visa papers. Almost 70 minutes of flight over Everest and other mountains will take you to Lhasa Gonggar Airport. You will take a ride in 4WD vehicle to cover 60km distance along Friendship Highway to Lhasa City. Stay overnight in a hotel in Lhasa. 

Day 4-5

Sightseeing in Lhasa (3,660m)

Lhasa is located on the northern edge of Kyi Chu River. Lhasa is the spiritual centre of Tibet. We will visit Potala Palace, Ramoche Monastery andNorbulingka Palace. Potala Palace is the home of Dalai Lama which was built in 637 AD. Norbulinkha is the summer palace of Dalai Lama which has been identified as the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sera Monastery and Jokhang Monastery are other places of interest in Lhasa.  

Day 6

Drive to Shigatse (3,900m) 280 km, O/N at Guesthouse

Leaving Lhasa, we will cross Kamba La (4794m) and Karo La (5010m) Pass. The path is scenic and allows view of beautiful Yamadroke-Tso Lake while nreath-taking views of surrounding mountains can be viewed to the south. We will reach Gynatse. KhumbumStupa and Palkor Monastery are places of interest in Gyantse. We will continue to drive to Shigatse (Xigatse) and reach there in about two hours from Gyantse. We will visit Panchen Lamas’ Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse. 

Day 7

Drive to Shegar (4,050m) 244kmO/N at Guesthouse

Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatselies in the base of Dolmari. This monastery was built in 1477 by GendunDrukpa and the monastery holds the Maitreya Chapel which holds the largest Brass statue of Buddha. We will drive for 4 hours to reach Shegar. Shegar is close to Everest Base Camp. We will stay overnight at Shegar. 

Day 8

Rest day at Shegar for acclimatizations

Take a day of rest at Shegar. It will help us in proper acclimatization to the increasing altitude. We can explore Shegar town on this day. Local Monastery and a fort is attraction in Shegar. Stay overnight at Shegar. 

Day 9-10

Drive Base Camp (5200m) 75km& Acclimatisation

After an early breakfast, we will leave Shegarand head towards Base Camp. We will cross the Pang La pass. Reaching to the top of Pang La is an exciting activity. We will enjoy the view of vast Tibetan plateau and Everest Mountain from the summit before continuing our journey to Base Camp where we will stay overnight. Acclimatization is necessary at this altitude to avoid altitudesickness. We will explore around base camp. We will practice using climbing gears and scout the route towards Camp1. Stay overnight at Everest Base Camp.

Day 11

Trek to Camp 1 (5,460m)

After a full day of rest, we will collect our gears and follow the trail that continues along Rongbuk Glacier. After some time, the trail escalates up through the eastern edge of the glacier and reach Camp1. Camp1 will be located below a large yellow rock. We can get spectacular view of Pumori Mountain from Camp1. Stay overnight at Camp1

Day 12

Trek to Changtse Base Camp (6,008m)

Leaving Camp1, we will follow the gradually climbing trail. The trail become steep as we reach to higher altitude. We can get spectacular views of Pumori,Nuptse and amazing mountain valleys as we arrive at Changtse Base Camp. Changtseexists to the north of Everest. Changtse in Tibetan language means 'North Peak'. After technical climbing, we will reach Changtse Base Camp where we will stay overnight.

Day 13

Trek to Advance Base Camp - ABC (6400m)

We will leave Changste Base Campand move towards Advanced Base Camp which is located at 6,400 m. We can get close-up view of Everest and LhakpaRi Mountain from the Advance Base Camp. The trail continues through ice seracs. This requires a bit technical climbing skill.   

Day 14-15

Rest and acclimatisation

We will prepare ourselves for upcoming climbing. We will practice using climbing gears and scout the way. We can return to lower altitude for acclimatization. Take plenty of fluids. 

Day 16

Climb up to crampons point and return to ABC

The trail from Advance Base Camp escalates over gravel hills. Following the western edge of ice, we will reach to crampons point. Near to this point, we can see ice pinnacles loom above the glacier.The trail escalates above the Pinnacles to southwest. This is the closest that we can reach to Everest if you are not willing to climb it.  

Day 17

Acclimatisation and final preparation for summit attempt

We will prepare ourselves to climb LhakpaRi Mountain. We will practice using climbing gears and scout the route towards LhakpaRi. We can return to lower altitude for acclimatization. The Guide will share LhakpaRi climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency.

Day 18

Ascend to Lhakpa-Ri (7045m)

We will start to climb LhakpaRi early before dawn as we intend to reach to the summit of LhakpaRi before noon. We will follow the sow slope along the north ridge which exists on the other end of Kharta Glacier and reach to the top. We can get spectacular views of Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga and other peaks and mountains from summit. Climbing LhakpaRi is not that technical but you will need high level of fitness. 

Day 19

Emergency day summit attempt

Including an Emergency Day in our itinerary makes sure that our trip goes according to plan even if we get delayed by unforeseen circumstances like bad weather and other factors.

Day 20

Return to Base Camp

We will follow the returning trail all the way to Base Camp. 

Day 21

Drive Shigatse

Leaving Base Camp, we drive to straight to Shigatse about 350km, and stay at guesthouses for the night. 

Day 22

Drive to Lhasa

From Shigatse, we drive to Lhasa about 350km and stay at hotel for the over night and get ready for the next day flight to Kathmandu. 

Day 23

Fly to Kathmandu

We fly to Kathmandu and our representative from KTM airport and transfer to hotel will pick you up. Free afternoon and evening  

Day 24

Free day in Kathmandu

This is a leisure day. Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal

Day 25

Depart for Int’l flight to home

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

COST INCLUDES

  • Climbing Permit, and all government taxes
  • Group Chinese visa fee
  • Chinese custom clearances at the border
  • Private transport from Katmandu to border, to Base Camp & return
  • Truck to carry expedition loads to & from BC
  • Full board accommodation (B/L/D) en-route to & from BC
  • Chinese Liaison officer & interpreter
  • Liaison officer's wages, allowances and insurance
  • 04 (four) nights at 3 star hotel accommodation on twin shared room BB basis
  • BC – Advance Base Camp – BC, yaks to carry the loads
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
  • Experienced & Professional high altitude personal climbing Sherpa on 1:3 ratio
  • Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
  • Quality single/twin shared tent to each client with sleeping mattress
  • Quality dinning tent
  • All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
  • Quality high altitude tents for the higher camps
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears including the ropes
  • Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
  • EPI gases with burner for high camps
  • Walkie-talkie set
  • Satellite phone for the emergency call (Personal call on payable basis)
  • Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
  • Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
  • Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
  • DHA duffel bags to each client
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
  • Insurance of local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
  • Half day city tours in Kathmandu
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu

COST EXCLUDES

  • High altitude coverage travel insurance
  • International Air ticket & any departures taxes
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
  • Cost of personal natures of expenses
  • Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

Fitness
Any expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs and lungs.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, youneed to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack.On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears. 
 
Experience
 
This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined withiceand skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
 
You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching  thesummit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory butdoesn’t really require any extreme technical experience. 

Download Trip Info

Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/M/LX-25
Grade:
Best Month of the Year : April, May, Sep and Oct
Hotel Accommodation : 4 Nights 3 Star Twin Shared BB
Maximum Elevation : 7,045M.
Destination: : Tibet

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