Mt. Lhotse (8,516m) peak is a part of the Everest Massif. The first attempt of Mt. Lhotse was made by an international team in the year 1955. The first successful ascent of this mountain was in 1956 by F. Luchsinger & E. Reiss of Swiss from the West Face.
The primary route on Mt. Lhotse is via Everest's South Col. The base camp & climbing route up to camp III of Mt. Lhotse & Mt. Everest is the same. The climbing route of Mt. Lhotse is separated from the route of Mt. Everest between South Col and Camp III. It is an independent mountain but the group of three peaks make up the Lhotse massif: Lhotse East or Middle, Lhotse & Lhotse Shar. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world. Our route to climb this mountain is via the normal route or South Face of Lhotse.
Climbing Routes & High Camps
After final preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly to Lukla and begins our 9 days teahouse trek in the Khumbu Valley toEverest base camp. We will ascent the peak via normal route, the south face route. We will establish four different camps on the mountain. The first, at 19,500ft, is situated at the top of the icefall. This camp function as an intermediate camp until CampII (advanced base camp) is established at 21,000ft. CampII will consist of large tents for cooking and dining and several smaller tents for sleeping. Camp II will be our base during the placements of Camp III and Camp IV (23,500ft and 25,912ft) respectively. Camp III, which stands at the head of the cirque on the Lhotse face, will consist of two and three men tents. This camp serves as an intermediate camp, which climbers will use to reach Camp IV. Most of our Sherpas are able to load ferry directly from Camp II to Camp IV. Large amount of gears are not needed at Camp III to establish Camp IV. Oxygen will be used above Camp III to aid climbers in reaching high camp before attempting the summit. From CampIV, we travel along the west ridge to the Summit. From here we traverse for a few hundred meters before reaching the main summit.
Our approach to base camp trekking begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla (gate way of Everest region). Once we reach there, it takes us couple hours to arrange porters and then start walking along the Milk River (Dudh Koshi) for 2-3 hours and we'll reach at a small village called Phaking (2,625m), where you are going to spend your first night in Everest area. Next day, trek to Namche Bazar(3,440m), which lies at the base of the Khumbu Himal. The trek will take approximately 10 days and travels from the Dudh Kosi valley up through the Imja valley and finally onto the Khumbu glacier. Along the way we will visit Namche, Tengpoche, Pheriche, Lobuche and Gorekshep, all of which are fascinating and richly cultured villages, which provide spectacular views of the Himalayas. For acclimatization purpose, this trek is longer than usual. This also gives us the chance to explore the many different areas and take the time to visit local monasteries with Nepali Sherpa friends. Now you will have the option of a sunset or sunrise climb to the 5,550m' summit of Kala Pattar for a panoramic view of some of the world's highest mountains including Everest at 29,028ft. We'll make the 3-hour trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp and continue our activities as per our expedition day-to-day plans.
Day 1: Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefing
Day 2: Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting
Day 3: Kathmandu; final preparation and packing
Day 4: Fly to Lukla (2840m), Trek to Phakding (2610m) 40min flight, 3-4hrs trek
Day 5Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) 5-6hrs
Day 6: Day hikes - Khumjung, Khunde (3840m
Day 7: Day hike to Thame (3,800m) 4-5hrs
Day 8: Trek Tengboche (3,860m) visit monastery 5hrs
Day 9Trek Dengboche (4,410m) inChhukungValley 5hrs
Day 10Day hikes to NagarjunPeak (52,000m) 5hrs
Day 11Trek to Lobuche (4,910m) 4hrs
Day 12Trek to Gorakshep (5,150m) 3hrs
Day 13Trek to Lhotse Base Camp(5200m) 2-3hrs
Day 14-16Acclimatization and preparations at base camp
Day 17-39: Acclimatization, load ferries and route opening
Day 40-45: Rest at the lower villages, Debouche
Day 46-56: Climbing up to campIV and summit push
Day 57-58Descent to base camp
Day 59: Trek to Pheriche 6hrs
Day 60Trek to Namche 5hrs
Day 61Trek to Lukla 6hrs
Day 62: Fly back to Kathmandu
Day 63-64Free day in Kathmandu
Day 65: Depart for Int’l flight to home
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and standard number of oxygen, which plays the vital roll for the success and safe climb of the peak.
Dream Himalaya Adventuresstrongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold.If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience.
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