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Mt. Manaslu Expedition (8,163m) - 45 days

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Mt. Manaslu, (8,163m) the eighth highest mountain in the world, is located about forty miles east of Annapurna I. Mt. Manaslu was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. It is one of the most popular among the 8000m peaks for climbing in the Himalayas of Nepal and especially for Japanese Climbers. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions. Possible avalanches in bad weather, crevasses and slippery snow in between camp II and I, makes this mountain a little distinct from other mountains in Nepal. Normally 3 high camps are established to attempt the summit. This mountain is a good choice for those climbers wishing to climb one of the 8,000m peak of the Himalayasand as a preparation climb for Mt.Everest.  

HW Tilman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950, but the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952.

A very famous climber in the field of mountaineering expedition, Reinhold Messner made the fourth ascent of Manaslu as a member of a Tyroleam expedition that climbed the peak from the Marsyangdi valley in 1972 

A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Buri-Gandaki valley in 1953 when another team followed in 1954. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. The South Korean attempt was in 1971 and in April 1972 an avalanche resulted in the death of five climbers and 10 Sherpas, and ended the second South Korean expedition.

 Climbing Routes and High Camps 

  • The trek to Base Camp (4,665m) takes about 8/9 days from Kathmandu and is up a steep path passing through rhododendron trees adjacent to spectacular hanging glaciers and rugged icefalls. The Base Camp is in a comfortable position on rock, which is protected from strong winds, but because of its particular location is susceptible to daily snowfalls, as the valley cloud happens to condense at this altitude.
  • There is a short walk of one hour over loose rock to the snout of the Larkya glacier, where it is the crampons point. It takes 4–5 hours to climb through the quite broken glacier to Camp-1 (5,700 m). This may require being roped in traditional glacier travel mode, although it may be possible to fix all potentially dangerous crevasse areas. The method of travel may change during the course of the expedition depending on snow conditions. Camp 1 is situated in a comfortable col.
  • From here, we climb up towards the massive icefall, but in fact pass underneath this to gain a steep snow slope that will be fixed with rope up to Camp-2 (6,700 m), travels through a series of snow shelves before ascending a steeper snow slope to reach a large col with spectacular views of the surrounding peaks. It will be pretty long climb about 7 – 9 hours.
  • From here, the route goes directly up the steeper northeast slopes, passing through a series of short ice bulges to reach an upper snow slope, which leads to a traverse to Camp-3 (7,300m), 4–5 hours.
  • The summit, which has been elusive since Sama-goan, is deceptively close. However, it is still a long day up rolling snow slopes, with short, steep sections at times, and this could be in deep snow.  Just below the true summit, at 5–6 hours, there is a comfortable place to stop and is where many people do stop. It is the intention to have enough rope, oxygen and time to push a fixed line up the last corniced, unstable ridge, so long as this is safe at the time. Although this is only 50m vertically and 150m horizontally, this will take about one to one and a half hours, return.
  • The descent is fast and easy, reaching Camp-3 in 1–2 hours. It is best to return to Camp-2 on the same day, another 2–3 hours for a well-earned rest. With a late start from Camp-2, it is possible to be back at Base Camp for a late lunch.
  • It will take 1–2 days to clear the camps on the mountain before the descent to Samagoan, we must allow 5 - 7 days of duration to trek back to KTM.

On the return, an option is fly by Chopper to KTM and share the cost among the members

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Medical back up Oxygen and Gamov bag at base camp
  • An unforgettable and amazing trek to Manaslu Base Camp
  • Oxygen cylinders and Mask set for climbing purpose
  • 1:1 ratios of climbing Sherpa support for summit push
  • Climb the world’s eighth highest peak, Mt.Manaslu with professional and already summitted&Sherpa Guides

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1

Arrival in KTM (1300m), Transfer to Hotel& Briefing O/N Hotel

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2

Half Day Sightseeing, Equipment checking and fitting O/N Hotel

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

Day 3

Final preparation and packing

This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition.   

Day 4

Drive to Dharapani via Beshishar (1960m) 7+4hrs

Leaving Kathmandu early in the morning, we will head west. It takes 6 hours (175km) of drive to reach Beshishar from Kathmandu via Prithvi Highway. From beshishar we shift our vehicle and jump on local jeeps and drive to Dharpani on dirt jeepable road for next 4 to 5 hours. We reach at Dhapani by the evening. 

Day 5

Trek to Yak Kharka (3,020m) 5hrs

Now leaving behind the annapurna trail, we move forward towards to the Manaslu route following the path towards to the Larkey Pass (5,160m). It will takes us about 5 hrs or max to 6 hours to reach at Yak Kharaka from Dharapani. We stay in the local teahouse for our meals and accommodation. 

Day 6

Trek to Bimtang (3,590m) 5hrs

After early morning breakfast at Yak Kharka, we continue our trek towards to the Manaslu Base Camp over Larkey Pass (5,160m), our 2nd day of the trek takes us to the Bimtang (3,590m) which is base of Larkey pass as well. The day trek will be about 4 hours or max to 5 hours only. 

Day 7

Acclimatization day in Bimtang (3,590m) 4hrs

Today will be acclimatization day up from Bimtang towards to the Larkey Pass (5,160m), we will try to go higher as possible and return to Bimtang for 2nd over night stay. This acclimatization hike will really help us for the next day long day walk over the Larkey Pass (5,160m) in terms of high altitude sickness. After hiking we return to the Bhimtang and stay in the same teahouse. 

Day 8

Cross over Larkey Pass (5,160m) & continue up to Samdo (3,875m) - 9hrs

Today will be tough day crossing over the Larkey Pass (5,160m) staring from the Bhimtang, it will be about 8 hours to 10 hours of continuous walk, we will carry pack lunch and enough water from the Bhimtang. From the top of Larkey pass, we can have superb views of Manaslu and Gorkha himal mountains.   

Day 9

Trek to Sama Goan (3,520m) 6hrs

After an early morning tea, we continue our day walk towards to the Samagaon, the last day trek before getting in the Manaslu base camp (4,400m), this is a large village with an ancient monastery, chortens and Mani walls. Building chortens is believed to keep the evil spirits out of the village. Close-up view of Manaslu can be seen from Samagaon village. Samagaon is one of the biggest village of this region where people grow crops like buckwheat and potatoes as staple food. Visit Sama Gompa Monastery to learn about the culture. Stay overnight in Sama Gaon.

Day 10

Rest & acclimatization at Sama Goan (3,520m)

Taking rest at Sama Gaon helps in acclimatization. After lunch, we can walk to of Birendra Kunda which is an ice lake located near to Manaslu Base Camp. We will return to our camp in Samagaon from Birendra Kunda for overnight stay.

Day 11

Trek to Manaslu Base camp (4,400m) 5-6hrs

From Sama Gaon, we will take short hike to Manalsu Base Camp. The Base Camp offers scenic views of lake, glacier, valley and surrounding mountains. During peak season, we can meet with several other expeditioners who come to climb Manaslu. Stay overnight at the Base Camp. 

Day 12-14

Acclimatization and preparations at Base Camp

Manaslu Base Camp exists almost 6hrs of trek far from our camp in Sama Gaon. Base Camp of Manaslu remains cramped with expeditioners in peak season. After necessary packing, we will travel light through forest area. We will climb the tapering slope above Samagaon and head towards the north of Manaslu glacier. The last section is the steepest and slippery where we need to move through narrow moraine. Enjoy the mountain views and stay overnight in Manaslu Base Camp. 

Day 15 - 38

Acclimatization, Load ferries, route opening, summit attempt of Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) and descent to the base camp

Days from 15 to 41 are allocated for Manaslu climbing attempt. The trail continues through hanging glaciers and icefalls. We will dedicate first few days for rotation of camps. Rotation of camps is necessary for making us properly acclimatized to high altitude. We will set up three high camps before we reach summit. 

Base Camp to Camp I (5700m)
After proper acclimatization, we will attempt climbing to Camp I. The trail is slippery as we need to walk through Larkya glacier. We may need to fix ropes at few points to cross crevasses. Camp I is located in a comfortable place which is protected from wind. Enjoy the view of route that we will take to reach Camp III.

Camp I to Camp II (6700m)
Route from Camp I to Camp II is technical. We will walk through longer sections of vertical snow and ice by making small ice steps. We will also need to use fixed as well as cable ropes. Following the rugged path below massive icefall, we will cross the steep snow slope to Col. It takes almost 7 hours to reach Camp II from Camp I.

Camp II to Camp III (7300m)
Route from Camp II to Camp III is steepest. We will climb the northeast slope through ice and reach upper snow slope from where we will advance towards Camp III. It takes 4-5 hours to reach to Camp III.      

Camp III to Summit
We will advance further through snow slopes. The path moves in and out of deep snow and gets steeper at several points. After almost 5 hours of climbing, we will reach the comfortable place where we will make brief stop to check for rope and oxygen. With the use of fixed cable, we will climb up the corniced and unstable ridge to the summit. It is about 50m vertical climb to the summit from the stopping point and it may take about 2 hours to reach the summit.  

Return to Base Camp 
After making successful climb to the summit, we will lower down to camp III. Return trail is relatively easy. We will reach Camp III in couple of hours. If everything is okay, we will reach to Camp II on the same day that we climb to the summit and lower down to Base Camp on the other day. Clear the Base Camp area.   
 

Day 39

Trek to Sama Goan (3,520m) 5-6hrs

We will retrace the route back to Sama Gaon from Manaslu Base Camp on this day. The path is scenic and the return trip is relatively easy. Stay overnight in Sama Gaon. 

Day 40-43

Return trek and drive to Kathmandu

We will take about 4 days for return to Kathmandu from Samagaon, we will take about 3 days and drive to KTM either from Dharapani/Beshishar to Kathmandu or if we take other way trek then we drive to KTM from Aarughat. If incase if you have Helicopter ride to KTM from Samagaon, then you will take Heli ride to KTM.  

Day 44

Extra day in Kathmandu

Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. Upon your interest, we can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Farewell dinner will be served in the evening.  
Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. Upon your interest, we can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Farewell dinner will be served in the evening.  

Day 45

Final Departure to home

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your flight schedule. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.
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COST INCLUDES

  • EPI gases with burner for high camps
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears including the ropes
  • Quality high altitude tents for the higher camps
  • Shower facility at base camp
  • All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
  • Quality dinning tent at BC
  • Quality single tentto each client at BC with sleeping mattress
  • Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
  • Experienced & Professional high altitude personal Climbing Sherpa on 1:1 ratio
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
  • Porters/horses/Yaks to carry expedition loads to & from Base Camp (BC)
  • All location transport by private vehicle
  • 5 (five) nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
  • Liaison officer wages, allowances and insurance
  • National park/Conservation permit fees
  • Mt. Manaslu Climbing Permit and all government taxes
  • POISK Oxygen (02 cylinders Per Client & 01 cylinder Per Sherpa)
  • Mask and Regulator to each client (to be retuned after expedition)
  • Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base at BC
  • Satellite phone for the emergency call (Personal call on payable basis)
  • Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
  • Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
  • Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
  • 02 Expedition duffel bags to each client
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
  • Insurance of local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
  • Half day city tours in Kathmandu
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu

COST EXCLUDES

  • High altitude coverage travel insurance
  • International Air ticket & any departures taxes
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
  • Cost of personal natures of expenses
  • Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

Fitness

Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.

In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week.    On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and standard number of oxygen, which plays the vital roll for the success and safe climb of the peak.
 
Experience Required

Dream Himalaya Adventuresstrongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold.If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience. 

Published on : November 05, 2018

On 27th Sept 2018 we climbed sucessfully Mount Manaslu with Dream Himalaya Aventure. It was the second time we choosed this agency - in November 2017 we reached the Summit of Mera peak- and for sure it will be not the last time! Dawa and his team are very professional and they provide a high Quality Service. Thanks to Tendy Sherpa & Karma Sherpa to help us in this fantastic experiencia. See us in the next!

Paola Licheri, Spain

45 days
USD 12000
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Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/M/MX-45
Grade:
Best Month of the Year : April, May, Sep & Oct
Trekking Duration: 12 days
Hotel Accommodation : 5 nights, 3 star hotel
Trek Type : Tea House Basis
Maximum Elevation : 8,163M.
Destination: : Nepal

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