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Mt. Manaslu Expedition (8,163m) - 48 days

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Mt. Manaslu, (8,163m) the eighth highest mountain in the world, is located about forty miles east of Annapurna I. Mt. Manaslu was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. It is one of the most popular among the 8000m peaks for climbing in the Himalayas of Nepal and especially for Japanese Climbers. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions. Possible avalanches in bad weather, crevasses and slippery snow in between camp II and I, makes this mountain a little distinct from other mountains in Nepal. Normally 3 high camps are established to attempt the summit. This mountain is a good choice for those climbers wishing to climb one of the 8,000m peak of the Himalayasand as a preparation climb for Mt.Everest.  

HW Tilman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950, but the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952.

A very famous climber in the field of mountaineering expedition, Reinhold Messner made the fourth ascent of Manaslu as a member of a Tyroleam expedition that climbed the peak from the Marsyangdi valley in 1972 

A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Buri-Gandaki valley in 1953 when another team followed in 1954. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. The South Korean attempt was in 1971 and in April 1972 an avalanche resulted in the death of five climbers and 10 Sherpas, and ended the second South Korean expedition.

 Climbing Routes and High Camps 

  • The trek to Base Camp (4,665m) takes about 8/9 days from Kathmandu and is up a steep path passing through rhododendron trees adjacent to spectacular hanging glaciers and rugged icefalls. The Base Camp is in a comfortable position on rock, which is protected from strong winds, but because of its particular location is susceptible to daily snowfalls, as the valley cloud happens to condense at this altitude.
  • There is a short walk of one hour over loose rock to the snout of the Larkya glacier, where it is the crampons point. It takes 4–5 hours to climb through the quite broken glacier to Camp-1 (5,700 m). This may require being roped in traditional glacier travel mode, although it may be possible to fix all potentially dangerous crevasse areas. The method of travel may change during the course of the expedition depending on snow conditions. Camp 1 is situated in a comfortable col.
  • From here, we climb up towards the massive icefall, but in fact pass underneath this to gain a steep snow slope that will be fixed with rope up to Camp-2 (6,700 m), travels through a series of snow shelves before ascending a steeper snow slope to reach a large col with spectacular views of the surrounding peaks. It will be pretty long climb about 7 – 9 hours.
  • From here, the route goes directly up the steeper northeast slopes, passing through a series of short ice bulges to reach an upper snow slope, which leads to a traverse to Camp-3 (7,300m), 4–5 hours.
  • The summit, which has been elusive since Sama-goan, is deceptively close. However, it is still a long day up rolling snow slopes, with short, steep sections at times, and this could be in deep snow.  Just below the true summit, at 5–6 hours, there is a comfortable place to stop and is where many people do stop. It is the intention to have enough rope, oxygen and time to push a fixed line up the last corniced, unstable ridge, so long as this is safe at the time. Although this is only 50m vertically and 150m horizontally, this will take about one to one and a half hours, return.
  • The descent is fast and easy, reaching Camp-3 in 1–2 hours. It is best to return to Camp-2 on the same day, another 2–3 hours for a well-earned rest. With a late start from Camp-2, it is possible to be back at Base Camp for a late lunch.
  • It will take 1–2 days to clear the camps on the mountain before the descent to Samagoan, we must allow 5 - 7 days of duration to trek back to KTM.

On the return, an option is fly by Chopper to KTM and share the cost among the members

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Medical back up Oxygen and Gamov bag at base camp
  • An unforgettable and amazing trek to Manaslu Base Camp
  • Oxygen cylinders and Mask set for climbing purpose
  • 1:2 ratios of climbing Sherpa support for summit push
  • Climb the world’s eighth highest peak, Mt.Manaslu with professional and already summitted&Sherpa Guides

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1

Arrival in KTM (1300m), Transfer to Hotel& Briefing O/N Hotel

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2

Half Day Sightseeing, Equipment checking and fitting O/N Hotel

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

Day 3

Final preparation and packing

This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition.   

Day 4

Drive to Dhading/Arughat (570m) 10hrs

Leaving Kathmandu early in the morning, we will head west. It takes 8 hours of drive to reach Arughat from Kathmandu via Prithvi Highway. On our way, we will stop at Malekhu to taste the local fish. Heading north, we will cover 30km of bumpy and meandering road along Trishuli River to reach Dhading Besi, the headquarters of Dhading district. We will head northwest from Dhadingbesi and take another 35km of drive to reach Arughat Bazaar which is separated into two flanks by Budhi Gandaki River. Stay overnight in Arughat.

Day 5

Drive to Soti Khola & Trek to Machhakhola (870m) 7hrs

Leaving Arughat Bazaar, we will drive along the western bank of River and reach Soti Khola (River). From here on, we need to start our trek. The trail stretches uphill through Sal forest. Crossing the series of ridges, we will walk along waterfall to rice terraces from where we will follow the ascending trail to Lapubesi village which is inhabited by Gurung ethnics. Crossing a suspension bridge over Nauli River, we will make it to Machhakhola. Stay overnight in Machhakhola.

Day 6

Trek to Jagat (1,430m) 6hrs

Waking early in the morning, we will walk along Thado River to Khorlabesi village. The trail continues through the narrow gorge to reach landslide area from where we will reach Tatopani, a natural hot spring.  Enjoy bathing in Tato Pani before crossing Budhi Gandaki River which will take us to Doban. From Doban, we will head east and reach Thulo Dhunga village.  We will cross suspension bridge over Yaru River and climb uphill to Thado Bharyang. Moving further through the scenic path with views of Manaslu and other surrounding mountains at the backdrop, we will reach Jagat where we will stay overnight.

Day 7

Trek to Deng (1,860m) 6hrs

We will enter Manaslu Conservation Area on this day. Moving through the conservation area, we will reach Salleri from where we will descend to Sirdibas. The trail escalates uphill from Sirdibas to Gurung village of Philim. Lowering down to river, we will climb from the river bed to Saguleri which greets us with distant view of Sringi Mountain (7187m). After going through series of ups and downs, we will cross the bridge over Budhi Gandaki River. Moving further, we will cross another bridge over Ghata River and climb uphill to pretty tiny villages of Aga and Lokwa. Lowering down from Lokwa, we will reach Eklaibhati that exists close to Shiar River. We will enjoy the views of Pangsing and walk through the eastern edge of river to Deng village. Stay overnight in Deng.

Day 8

Trek to Namrung (2,630m) 6hrs

Villages afterwards Deng have strong Tibetan influence. Buckwheat is the staple crop grown in this region. Moving in and out of dispersed settlements, we will reach Bih. Another couple of hours of walk through this pretty valley will take us to Ghap village. After lunch at Ghap, we will walk past the colourful alpine forest and meadow full of lush green vegetation. Crossing the river with its origin at Lidana glacier, we will be greeted with views of Kutang Mountain range, Saula Mountain (6235m), Manaslu Mountain, Simang Mountain range and other peaks and mountains. The trail escalates uphill from here on to the farm village of Namrung. Stay overnight in Namrung

Day 9

Trek to Sama Goan (3,520m) 6hrs

After an early morning tea, we will cross the river and walk through forest and gorge to   Lihi. We will enjoy the close-up view of Ganesh Mountain and Simnang Mountain. Moving further, we will reach Sho village. This village allows soaring view of open valley. Climbing through the steepest section, we will reach Lho. Following the scenic path with picturesque view of valley, we will reach Sama Gaon. This is a large village with an ancient monastery, chortens and Mani walls. Building chortens is believed to keep the evil spirits out of the village. Close-up view of Manaslu can be seen from Samagaon village. Samagaon is one of the biggest village of this region where people grow crops like buckwheat and potatoes as staple food. Visit Sama Gompa Monastery to learn about the culture. Stay overnight in Sama Gaon.

Day 10

Rest & acclimatization at Sama Goan (3,520m)

Taking rest at Sama Gaon helps in acclimatization. After lunch, we can walk to of Birendra Kunda which is an ice lake located near to Manaslu Base Camp. We will return to our camp in Samagaon from Birendra Kunda for overnight stay.

Day 11

Trek to Manaslu Base camp (4,400m) 5-6hrs

From Sama Gaon, we will take short hike to Manalsu Base Camp. The Base Camp offers scenic views of lake, glacier, valley and surrounding mountains. During peak season, we can meet with several other expeditioners who come to climb Manaslu. Stay overnight at the Base Camp. 

Day 12-14

Acclimatization and preparations at Base Camp

Manaslu Base Camp exists almost 6hrs of trek far from our camp in Sama Gaon. Base Camp of Manaslu remains cramped with expeditioners in peak season. After necessary packing, we will travel light through forest area. We will climb the tapering slope above Samagaon and head towards the north of Manaslu glacier. The last section is the steepest and slippery where we need to move through narrow moraine. Enjoy the mountain views and stay overnight in Manaslu Base Camp. 

Day 15 - 41

Acclimatization, Load ferries, route opening, summit attempt of Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) and descent to the base camp

Days from 15 to 41 are allocated for Manaslu climbing attempt. The trail continues through hanging glaciers and icefalls. We will dedicate first few days for rotation of camps. Rotation of camps is necessary for making us properly acclimatized to high altitude. We will set up three high camps before we reach summit. 

Base Camp to Camp I (5700m)
After proper acclimatization, we will attempt climbing to Camp I. The trail is slippery as we need to walk through Larkya glacier. We may need to fix ropes at few points to cross crevasses. Camp I is located in a comfortable place which is protected from wind. Enjoy the view of route that we will take to reach Camp III.

Camp I to Camp II (6700m)
Route from Camp I to Camp II is technical. We will walk through longer sections of vertical snow and ice by making small ice steps. We will also need to use fixed as well as cable ropes. Following the rugged path below massive icefall, we will cross the steep snow slope to Col. It takes almost 7 hours to reach Camp II from Camp I.

Camp II to Camp III (7300m)
Route from Camp II to Camp III is steepest. We will climb the northeast slope through ice and reach upper snow slope from where we will advance towards Camp III. It takes 4-5 hours to reach to Camp III.      

Camp III to Summit
We will advance further through snow slopes. The path moves in and out of deep snow and gets steeper at several points. After almost 5 hours of climbing, we will reach the comfortable place where we will make brief stop to check for rope and oxygen. With the use of fixed cable, we will climb up the corniced and unstable ridge to the summit. It is about 50m vertical climb to the summit from the stopping point and it may take about 2 hours to reach the summit.  

Return to Base Camp 
After making successful climb to the summit, we will lower down to camp III. Return trail is relatively easy. We will reach Camp III in couple of hours. If everything is okay, we will reach to Camp II on the same day that we climb to the summit and lower down to Base Camp on the other day. Clear the Base Camp area.   
 

Day 42

Trek to Sama Goan (3,520m) 5-6hrs

We will retrace the route back to Sama Gaon from Manaslu Base Camp on this day. The path is scenic and the return trip is relatively easy. Stay overnight in Sama Gaon. 

Day 43

Trek to Ghap (2,397m) 5hrs

We will make final visit to Sama Gompa before moving to Lho Gaon. Brief walk from Lho Goan will take us to yet another pretty tiny village of Sho. The trail continues through pasture land to Namrung village. From Namrung, we will walk through alpine land and arrive at the suspension bridge over Budhi Gandaki River. Couple of hours of walk from bridge will take us to Ghap where we will stay overnight. 

Day 44

Trek to Doban (1,340m) 5hrs

Walking through Mani stones, we will reach Lana village. Walking past Lana village, we will reach Deng from where we need to cross few bridges to make it to Lauri. Moving further through Lauri, we will reach Doban where we will stay overnight. 

Day 45

Trek to Soti/Arughat (570m) 6hrs

After an early morning tea, we will walk through Khorlabesi. Following the scenic path with views of Northeast face of Ganesh Mountain, we will walk past waterfall and cross Budhi Gandaki River to reach Lapubesi. From Gurung village of Lapubesi, we will once again cross river to reach small village of Soti Khola. One and half hour of ride from Soti Khola will take us to Arughat where we will stay overnight.      

Day 46

Drive to Kathmandu 8hrs

We will leave Arughat and drive to Kathmandu. It takes about six hours of drive to reach Kathmandu. Stay overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 47

Kathmandu (1300m)

Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. Upon your interest, we can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Farewell dinner will be served in the evening.   

Day 48

Final Departure to home

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your flight schedule. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.
Start Date
End Date
Availability
Price
Min.
 
Start Date
1st Sep 2017
End Date
18th Oct 2017
Availability
OPENED
Price
USD 7,400
USD 11,300
Min
4
 

COST INCLUDES

  • EPI gases with burner for high camps
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears including the ropes
  • Quality high altitude tents for the higher camps
  • Shower facility at base camp
  • All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
  • Quality dinning tent at BC
  • Quality single tentto each client at BC with sleeping mattress
  • Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
  • Experienced & Professional high altitude personal Climbing Sherpa on 1:2 ratio
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
  • Porters/horses/Yaks to carry expedition loads to & from Base Camp (BC)
  • All location transport by private vehicle
  • 5 (five) nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
  • Liaison officer wages, allowances and insurance
  • National park/Conservation permit fees
  • Mt. Manaslu Climbing Permit and all government taxes
  • POISK Oxygen (03 cylinders Per Client & 01 cylinder Per Sherpa)
  • Mask and Regulator to each client (to be retuned after expedition)
  • Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base at BC
  • Satellite phone for the emergency call (Personal call on payable basis)
  • Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
  • Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
  • Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
  • DHA duffel bags to each client
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
  • Insurance of local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
  • Half day city tours in Kathmandu
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu

COST EXCLUDES

  • High altitude coverage travel insurance
  • International Air ticket & any departures taxes
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
  • All the required logistic services above base camp
  • High tent, high food, climbing Sherpa, Oxygen & Mask for climbing purpose, climbing hardware gears (i.e. snow bars, ropes etc.)
  • Cost of personal natures of expenses
  • Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

Fitness

Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.

In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week.    On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and standard number of oxygen, which plays the vital roll for the success and safe climb of the peak.
 
Experience Required

Dream Himalaya Adventuresstrongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold.If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience. 

48 days
USD 11300
Download Trip Info

Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/M/MX-48
Grade:
Best Month of the Year : April, May, Sep & Oct
Trekking Duration: 14 days
Hotel Accommodation : 5 nights, 3 star hotel
Maximum Elevation : 8,163M.
Destination: : Nepal

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