Mt. Pomari (7,161m), a brilliant white stunning peak is one of the premier 7,000m peaks in the Everest region of Nepal. The peak is on the border of Nepal and Tibet right in front of Mt. Everest, where the difference between the two countries is obvious: The arid Tibetan Plateau stretches to the north and west and rise to the south and east. It is ideal for those looking to pursue the 8000m peaks, or a fantastic climb in its own right. The route follows the Southeast buttress before it traverses to the East Ridge for the remainder of the ascent. Requiring excellent physical endurance, Pumori offers sections of wild exposure, views of Lhotse and Everest, with technical difficulty worthy of any Himalayan alpinist. Pumori is a serious expedition peak designed only for experienced climbers.
Mt. Pumori Base camp can be reached by taking the Kathmandu - Lukla flight and trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche - Pheriche and Lobuche. Mt. Pumori is 7,161meter high and the ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5,545m. Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and exposed to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls and tunnel climb. Pumori is not as easy as other mountains and there are difficult technical parts in this route. Therefore, prior experience and technical mountaineering skill is required. We provide fully guided to success the expedition on this mountain, which suits all kinds of climbers.
Climbing Route and High Camps
We establish three high camps above the base camp and summit attempt, camp I or advance base camp at 5,700m, campII at 6,200m which is located on a narrow ridge and an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. CampIII, 6,850m it is too windy, many crevasses and ice walls way to summit and we use normal route (south east) to ascent the mountain. Our strong & professional high altitude climbing Sherpas will fix ropes as required. Depending on our fitness, we'll be moving up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. This expedition is fully supported with all the base camp & high camp services.
This challenging climb includes a classical trek into the Solu-Khumbu region begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla & continually trekking along the Dudh-Kosi ("MilkRiver"). After crossing the Namche Bazar”Sherpa headquater/Capital” we will continue on to Tengboche with its beautiful Buddhist monastery.
This small village is considered be the spiritual center of the Khumbu area. We will gradually make our ascent to Pheruche (4,250m), Lobuche (4,910m) and finally along the glacial moraine to base camp of Mt.Pomari (5,300m) at the base of Kala Pattar (5,550m). Now you will have the option of a sunset or sunrise climb to the 5,550m' summit of Kala Pathar for a panoramic view of some of the world's
highest mountains including Everest at 29,028 ft. After successfully completing 18/19 days of climbing on technically challenging peak, we take three days return trek to Lukla via Pangbouche, Namche and finally fly for KTM.
Day 1Arrive in KTM, transfer to hotel and briefing
Day 2City tour & necessary preparation
Day 3Flight to Lukla& trek to Phakding (2,610m)40min flight, 3-4hrs trek
Day 4Trek to Namche(3,440m)5-6hrs
Day 5Day hikes - Khumjung, Khunde (3840m)
Day 6Trek to Tengboche (3,860m) 6hrs
Day 7Trek to Pheriche (4,250m)5hrs
Day 8Day hikes and acclimatization day
Day 9Trek to Lobuche (4,910m) 6hrs
Day 10Trek to Pumori Base Camp (5,300m) 3-4hrs
Day 11-29Load ferry, acclimatization, route opening and Summit attempt on Mt.Pumori(7,161m)
Day 30Trek to Pangboche 4-5hrs
Day 31Trek to Namche 5hrs
Day 32Trek to Lukla 6hrs
Day 33Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer hotel
Day 34Kathmandu, extra free day
Day 35Int’l departure for home
Any expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs and lungs.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, youneed to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack.On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears.
This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined withiceand skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching thesummit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory butdoesn’t really require any extreme technical experience.
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