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Mt. Baruntse Expedition (7,129m) - 35 days

 Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/M/BX-35
Destination: : Nepal
Trekking Duration: 19 days
Climbing Period: Mera - 3 days / Baruntse - 10 days
Trek Type : Teahouses & Camping
Grade:
Maximum Elevation : 7,129M.
Avg. hours of walk / day : 6 hours
Best Month of the Year : April, May, Oct and Nov
Hotel Accommodation : 4 nights, 3 star hotel, single room on BB basis
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(An acclimatization trip to Mera Peak (6,476m) 

The potential for climbing "East of Everest" was first recognised by members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, which made a journey of exploration into the region. Three years later, in 1954, members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, including Edmund Hillary and George Lowe, returned to exploit the climbing potential to the full. Although their prime aim was to explore Makalu, in a concerted effort of peak bagging around the upper Barun Glacier, this team made no fewer than 20 first ascents of which Baruntse was the most significant. The first ascent of Baruntse was been made. They climbed the mountain by the South-East Ridge, which will be the line of our ascent. 

An ascent on Baruntse (23,390ft / 7,129m) is an adventure for climbers wishing to summit a true Nepal Himalaya peak. This remote expedition into the heart of the Khumbu culminates in a relatively short climb to the summit of this majestic 7,000m peak. Baruntse is among some of the highest peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and AmaDablam, and this expedition rewards you with spectacular views throughout. 

Mt. Baruntse expedition trip also encompasses a climb of Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft) as acclimatistion on the long approach trek to Base Camp and a crossing of the Ambulapcha Pass on the return. 

This trip is an opportunity to experience non- technical climbing at moderate to high altitude, and whilst not being an 8,000 metre peak, the climb incorporates a lot of the components of 8000m peak climbing and can be regarded as a good training peak for higher objectives. In addition to the climbing, the expedition visits a remote part of Nepal with stunning Himalayan views and exciting local culture. 

Climbing Route and High Camps 

We'll establish Base Camp just above the five holy lakes "Panch Pokhari" at 5,400m and two higher camps on the mountain. We'll ascend the 6,100m West Col before establishing Camp 1 (6,150m), where the long ridge leading to the summit is clearly visible. We establish our Camp II at the altitude of 6,400m from where we ascent the peak and turn back to Camp I, which takes about 10/11 hours. The climb from CI to CII follows steepening slopes to a small col and takes about 4/5 hours. A tricky step at around 7,000m adds further spice to the climb. The route is generally a straightforward snow and ice climb and not technically demanding. 

Journey 

After preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly direct to Lukla and begin the trek into the Hinku Valley, enjoying Sherpa country at its finest. The hike-in provides for excellent acclimatization as we head northward through the pristine alpine environment. On the way to Baruntse BC.We slowly make our way south through the terraced fields that line the DuhdKosi to Piuyan and on to Pangum, and continue for 8 days to reach at base camp of Mera Peak/Khare and climbing on Mera Peak starts, 1st night to Mera La, 2nd to High Camp and Summit of the peak and continue descent and walk to next side to KongmaDingma. Trek continue to base camp of Batunse via hunku valley and Sherpas start to carry the loads to the higher camps and acclimatization climbing to the higher camps will also happen simultaneously. On the return way to Lukla, we will trek through a challenging and stunning view point, Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,845m) and goes through the lower part of the Everest region, this will give you chance to see and experience the Sherpas cultures and traditions.  

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Expert & experienced cook and crews
  • Medical back up Oxygen with mask set throughout the trip
  • Medical back up Oxygen with mask set throughout the trip
  • Trek & Climb to the area without crowds
  • Perfect mountain as pre-Expedition to any 8000m mountains
  • Trek way out via climbing the view point “AmphuPapcha Pass” (5,846m) and Everest main trail
  • Trek in into Hinku valley, Makalu Barun area
  • Acclimatization and training climb to Mera Peak (6,476m)
  • Climb the 7000m peak, not technically tough challenging, with professional and Everest SummittedSherpa Guides

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1

Arrive in KTM, transfer to hotel and briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other expeditioners who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2

City tour & necessary preparation

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

Day 3

Fly Lukla 2200m. Trek to Piuyan (2800m) 3-4 hrs

We will drive to domestic terminal of Tribhuvan Airport early in the morning and catch flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. We will follow one of the most scenic air routes in the world with panoramic views of glistening mountains to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. Lukla allows access to Everest Khumbu region. We will assemble the crew and take breakfast before start of Mera Peak Climbing.  Lowering down from Lukla, we will proceed through forest area to Surke. Moving further through Pakhapani, we will pass through local villages to Puiyan / Paiya. Enjoy the views of Kongde Ri, Khatang Peak and other 7000m+ peaks and mountains and stay overnight in Puiyan.

Day 4

Pangom (2800m) 5-6hrs

After an early morning tea, we will descend to wooden bridge. Crossing the Puiyan River over bridge, we will follow the slippery path to Kari La Pass. We will cross this pass and walk through few dispersed villages. The trail continues through bamboo and rhododendron forest. We will follow the scenic path with incredible views of Dudh Kunda Mountain and Dudh Koshi River Valley to Pangkoma village. Trading is the chief occupation of locals in Pangkoma/ Pangom.

Day 5

Niumso (2600m) 4-5hrs

Leaving Pangom early in the morning, we will lower down through the rock-strewn path that takes us through forest of colourful rhododendron forest. Exiting from the forest, we will walk along Mani walls and teahouses. Following the scenic path with close-up views of south face of Mera Peak (6064m) and Naulekh Peak, we will walk through pine and rhododendron forest to Niumso/ Nigmsa. Stay overnight in Niumso.

Day 6

Strenuous trek Chetra Tenga forest camp (3400m) 7hrs

After an early morning tea, we will follow the steep and tapered path uphill through rhododendron and bamboo forest. We need to be careful while passing through landslide area. We will descend to river. Walking along the river, the trail contours up to the forest where we will enjoy the views of Himalayan wildlife. Walking past the stone cave, we will reach Chetra Tenga Forest Camp where we will stay overnight.

Day 7

Moderately strenuous trek to Kothe (3600m) 6-7hrs

Continuing our journey through Chetra Tenga Forest Camp, we will arrive at a perfect view point of Hinku Valley that allows spectacular views of surrounding Mountains and peaks. Following the levelled path through bamboo and pine forest that is rich in wildlife, we will enjoy the breathtaking views of Mera and Hinku Valley as we move towards Tashing Dingma. We will follow the river in Hinku valley all the way to Kothe where we will stay overnight.

Day 8

Trek to Tagnag (4356m) 6hrs

Following the western edge of Hinku River, we will follow the scenic path uphill with view of Peak 39 to Gonmdishung which is a summer settlement of yak herders located to the western edge of Hinku Drangka. From Gondishung, we will arrive at 200yr old Lungsumba Gompa where we can see the direction towards Mera Peak been inscribed in rock. Bit further from Gompa exists Tagnag/ Thaknak where we will stay overnight. Enjoy the views of Thamserku, Kusum Kangru and Kangtega peaks.

Day 9

Acclimatization: Kusum Kaunguru Ridge & back to Tagnag (4356m) 6-7hrs

We will take a day of rest in Tagnag on this day. Side trip will be arranged to nearby Kusum Kanguru peak. Kusum Kanguru separates Hinku Valley with Dudh Koshi Valley. From Kusum Kanguru Ri, we will return to our camp in Tagnag for overnight stay.

Day 10

Trek to Khare via Dig Kharka (5025m) 6-7hrs

Leaving Tagnag, we will walk through the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka which exists near to the base of Hinku Nup Glacier. Dig Kharka offers the scenic view of Charpate Mountain. Leaving Dig Kharka, we will climb uphill through moraines to the snout of Hinku Nup. Walking further, we will cross Shar Glacier and walk through steep path to Khare. We will be greeted with spectacular view of North face of Mera Peak.  Stay overnight at Khare.

Day 11

Rest and Acclimatization at Khare (5025m)

You will receive a pre climb training from climbing guide. You can also practice climbing and using climbing gears like ice axe, crampons, harness and ascender properly at Khare. You will also be taught how to use ropes while moving up and down. Stay overnight in Khare.

Day 12

Short steep walk to Mera La Camp (5415m) 3-4hrs

The trail continues through boulder and glacier to Mera Peak Base Camp/ Mera La Camp. Following the steep route slowly and gradually, we will reach to Mera La Camp. You will get final training before climbing Mera La. After training for 2-3 hours, we will climb to Mera La. We will be taking route to High Camp through Mera La on the next day. We will set our camp in Mera La in the northern section where there are no crevasses. Mera La expanses south to join with the gorgeous Mera glacier which lowers down from Mera Peak. Stay overnight in Mera La Camp.

Day 13

Mera la High Camp (5800m) 4-5hrs

We will reach to the Mera High Camp on this day. Walking through the rock-strewn path, we will walk for few hours to Mera High Camp. The trail is strenuous as we need to pass through crevasses. We reach to the top of the rock band that is marked by a cairn. We will establish our high camp at the top of rock band. The Camp site offers spectacular views of Everest, Makalu Mountain, Cho Oyu Mountain and south face of Lhotshe, Nuptse and Baruntse Mountains. Stay overnight in Mera High Camp.

Day 14

Summit Mera Peak (6,654m), same day trek to Kongmo Dingma 8-9hrs

We need to begin our trek quite early before sunrise on this day as our aim is to reach to the summit by noon. After preparing the baggage, we will take slow climb to the summit. Temperature is quite cold in this region. Our trail continues through glacier to snow hump-back ridge. The trail continues through the snout of glacier to the south summit ridge. We need to use fixed cables on this day. Mera Peak summit offers panoramic views of Everest Mountain, Kanchenjunga Mountain, Makalu Mountain, Cho Oyu Mountain and other peaks and mountains. After capturing the memories in camera, we will lower down to Base Camp of Mera Peak and from there descend further to Kongmo Dingma where we will stay overnight.

Day 15

Honku Valley (5200m) 5-6hrs

Leaving Kongmo Dingma, we will walk through lush green yak pasture in a remote valley. We can enjoy the view of Chamlang Mountain to the left while Baruntse can be viewed beyond. The terrain is relatively subtle considering the fact that we are entering the area with group of some of the highest mountains in the world. We will follow the broad and straight trail along Hunku Valley. Everest and Lhotse looms in front of us. Stay overnight at Honku valley. 

Day 16

Mt Baruntse base camp (5,400m)

Walking through Honku Valley, we will pass Seto Pokhari and follow the ascending trail along remote Himalayas. We will reach at an elevation of 5400m where we will find a clear area to set our tent which will be used as the Base Camp for Mount Baruntse Climbing. Stay overnight at Baruntse Base Camp.  

Day 17-27

Load ferry, acclimatization and summit attempt (7,129m)

We will allocate first few days for preparation to climb Baruntse. Guide will share Baruntse climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency. Once the Sherpas make way and fix cables wherever necessary and set up High camps, we will begin Baruntse Climbing.
Baruntse Base Camp to High Camp I (6150m)
Climbing West Col, we will reach to the clear area at 6150m altitude where we will establish High Camp I. We can get the view of long ridge reaching to the summit from High Camp I.
High Camp I to High Camp II (6400m)
Leaving Camp I, we will climb the 40 degree snow slope to reach small Col from where we will head towards Camp II.   
Camp II to Summit and Back to Base Camp
 From Camp II, we will follow the slippery path. We need to use crampons to make way. Crossing through seracs and crevasses, we will take vertical climb to the summit.  Enjoy the views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Mera Peak and other peaks and mountains and lower down to Camp II and proceed all the way to Base Camp.

Day 28

Trek to Panch Pokhari (5800m) 5-6hrs

After the successful Baruntse Climbing, we will begin our return trek from Baruntse Base Camp. Following the scenic Honku Valley, we will reach Panch Pokhari (collection of five lakes). Huge ceremony is observed at Panch Pokhari during Janai Purnima festival that falls in August. Stay overnight at Panch Pokhari.

Day 29

Cross Amphu Pass (5845m) & Trek to Yak Kharka 7-8hrs

From Panch Pokhari, we will reach to the base of Amphu Pass. We will head to south from north through rock and ice and climb to the top of Amphu Lapcha Pass. We need to use fixed cables to lower down to the other end of Amphu Lapcha from where we will head towards Yak Kharka. Stay overnight at Yak Kharka. 

Day 30

Trek to Chukung (4370m) 5-6hrs

Lowering down from the meadow area of Yak Kharka, we will proceed through moraines to Chukkung. Imja River meets with Dudh Koshi River above Pangboche Village. We will be introduced to the culture of Khumbu region. Stay overnight at Chukung.

Day 31

Trek to Pangboche (3930m) 6-7hrs

Lowering from Chukung, we will reach small village of Pangboche. There is small ancient monastery at Pangboche which is said to be the Khumbu’s oldest Monastery. We will reach Pangboche and soak ourselves in the warm hospitality of friendly locals. Stay overnight at Pangboche.

Day 32

Trek to Namche (3440m) 4hrs

Leaving Pangboche, we will descend to Imja River and walk through forest to Tengboche. We will visit Tengboche monastery. After lunch at Tengboche, we will traverse rhododendron forest and cross bridge over Dudh Koshi River. We will reach Sansa and head towards Namche Bazaar where we will stay overnight.

Day 33

Trek to Lukla, 2800m

From Namche, we will lower down to rhododendron forest and walk along Dudhkoshi River to Phakding. Walking past the walled road of Ghat, we will reach Lukla. Stay overnight in Lukla.

Day 34

Fly to KTM, free day in KTM

We will catch an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. Spend the rest of the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal. Stay overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 35

Int’l departure to home

We will transfer you to the Airport as per your scheduled flight for your onward destination. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.
Start Date
End Date
Availability
Price
Min.
 
Start Date
12th Oct 2019
End Date
15th Nov 2019
Availability
OPENED
Price
USD 8,500
Min
4
 
REMARKS : If you have private team (+4 persons team), contact our sales person for customized date and special group based discounted cost


HIRING OPTIONS

  • Carabiner (Unlock) - USD 0.50 per/day 
  • Carabiner (Lock) - USD 0.50 per/day 
  • Harness - USD 1 per/day 
  • Halmet (Camp/BD) - USD 1 per/day 
  • Ice Axe (55cm to 75cm) - USD 1 per/day 
  • Mountaineering boot (Spantik or similar, size UK 6 to 12) - USD 4.50 per/day 
  • Crampon - USD 1 per/day 
  • Figure of 8/Descender - USD 1 per/day 
  • Jumar/Ascender - USD 1.5 per/day
  • Down jacket (450 grams down) - USD 2 per/day 
  • Seeping bag (-20 degree rated) - USD 2.5 per/day 

COST INCLUDES

  • Climbing Royalty fee and all govt. taxes for Mt.Bruntse
  • Climbing permit fee for Mera Peak
  • National park/Conservation permit fees
  • 4 nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
  • All internal flights with departure taxes
  • Liaison officer wages, allowances & insurance
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide
  • Climbing support Sherpas on 1:2 ratios
  • Cook (s) and necessary kitchen staffs
  • Require number of porters and yaks to & from Base Camp (BC)
  • All necessary Climbing hardware gears including fixed ropes
  • All necessary camping and kitchen gears
  • Meals (B/L/D), during trekking and climbing period
  • High altitude food for higher camps
  • Best quality single or twin shared tent with sleeping mattress at Base Camp
  • High altitude tents as require
  • Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose at BC
  • Gamow bag /PAC for medical purpose
  • A group medical kit
  • Satellite phone for emergency call purpose (personal calls on payable basis)
  • Walkie-talkie sets
  • High camps stoves and gases (EPI gas with burners)
  • Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicles
  • Celebration dinner

COST EXCLUDES

  • Medical/Personal high risk travel insurance
  • Personal climbing gears
  • Major meals in Kathmandu
  • Cost of personal nature expenses
  • Cost of electronic appliances
  • International air ticket and departure tax
  • Tip to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

Fitness

Any expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs and lungs.

In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, youneed to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack.On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears. 
 
Experience Required

 This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined withiceand skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
 
You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching  thesummit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory butdoesn’t really require any extreme technical experience. 

Testimonials

35 days
Price 2019 : USD 8500 Price 2020 : USD 8900
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