The potential for climbing "East of Everest" was first recognized by members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, which made a journey of exploration into the region. Three years later, in 1954, members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, including Edmund Hillary and George Lowe, returned to exploit the climbing potential to the full. Although their prime aim was to explore Makalu, in a concerted effort of peak bagging around the upper Barun Glacier, this team made no fewer than 20 first ascents of which Baruntse was the most significant. The first ascent of Baruntse was been made. They climbed the mountain by the South-East Ridge, which will be the line of our ascent.
An ascent on Baruntse (23,390ft / 7,129m) is an adventure for climbers wishing to summit a true Nepal Himalaya peak. This remote expedition into the heart of the Khumbu culminates in a relatively short climb to the summit of this majestic 7,000m peak. Baruntse is among some of the highest peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and AmaDablam, and this expedition rewards you with spectacular views throughout.
Mt. Baruntse expedition trip also encompasses a climb of Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft) as acclimatization on the long approach trek to Base Camp and a crossing of the Ambulapcha Pass on the return.
This trip is an opportunity to experience non-technical climbing at moderate to high altitude, and whilst not being an 8,000-meter peak, the climb incorporates a lot of the components of 8000m peak climbing and can be regarded as a good training peak for higher objectives. In addition to the climbing, the expedition visits a remote part of Nepal with stunning Himalayan views and exciting local culture.
We'll establish Base Camp just above the five holy lakes "Panch Pokhari" at 5,400m and two higher camps on the mountain. We'll ascend the 6,100m West Col before establishing Camp 1 (6,150m), where the long ridge leading to the summit is clearly visible. We establish our Camp II at the altitude of 6,400m from where we ascend the peak and turn back to Camp I, which takes about 10/11 hours. The climb from CI to CII follows steepening slopes to a small col and takes about 4/5 hours. A tricky step at around 7,000m adds further spice to the climb. The route is generally a straightforward snow and ice climb and not technically demanding.
After preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly direct to Lukla and begin the trek into the Hinku Valley, enjoying Sherpa country at its finest. The hike-in provides for excellent acclimatization as we head northward through the pristine alpine environment. On the way to Baruntse BC. We slowly make our way south through the terraced fields that line the DuhdKosi to Piuyan and on to Pangum, and continue for 8 days to reach at base camp of Mera Peak/Khare and climbing on Mera Peak starts, 1st night to Mera La, 2nd to High Camp and Summit of the peak and continue descent and walk to next side to KongmaDingma. Trek continues to base camp of Batunse via Hunku valley and Sherpas start to carry the loads to the higher camps and acclimatization climbing to the higher camps will also happen simultaneously. On the return way to Lukla, we will trek through a challenging and stunning viewpoint, Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,845m) and goes through the lower part of the Everest region, this will give you chance to see and experience the Sherpas cultures and traditions.
Day 1Arrive in KTM, transfer to hotel and briefing
Day 2City tour & necessary preparation
Day 3Fly Lukla 2200m. Trek to Piuyan (2800m) 3-4 hrs
Day 4Pangom (2800m) 5-6hrs
Day 5Niumso (2600m) 4-5hrs
Day 6Strenuous trek Chetra Tenga forest camp (3400m) 7hrs
Day 7Moderately strenuous trek to Kothe (3600m) 6-7hrs
Day 8Trek to Tagnag (4356m) 6hrs
Day 9Acclimatization: Kusum Kaunguru Ridge & back to Tagnag (4356m) 6-7hrs
Day 10Trek to Khare via Dig Kharka (5025m) 6-7hrs
Day 11Short steep walk to Mera La Camp (5415m) - acclimatization and training day 4-6hrs
Day 12Mera la High Camp (5800m) 4-6hrs
Day 13Summit Mera Peak (6,654m), same day trek to Kongmo Dingma 8-9hrs
Day 14Honku Valley/Seto Pokheri (5200m) 5-6hrs
Day 15Mt Baruntse base camp (5,400m)
Day 16-25Load ferry, acclimatization and summit attempt (7,129m)
Day 26Trek to Amphu Lapcha Pass BC (5,530m) 5-6hrs
Day 27Cross Amphu Pass (5845m) & Trek to Chukung 7-8hrs
Day 28Trek to Pangboche (3930m) 5-6hrs
Day 29Trek to Namche (3440m) - 5hrs
Day 30Trek to Lukla, 2800m - 6hrs
Day 31-32Fly to KTM, transfer to hotel and enjoy KTM
Days 33Int’l departure to home
Any expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs, and lungs.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However, during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue, etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, you need to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with a daypack. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gear.
This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined with ice and skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences are mandatory but don't really require any extreme technical experience.
We did the trek to EBC in March 2022 with Dream Himalaya Adventures. A trip like this will always have curveballs because of the environment and altitude - that's when you really appreciate people with brilliant local knowledge and the ability to sort thing out. Dawa and team were absolutely fantastic and I unreservedly recommend them to anyone.
This was my 3rd trip with Dream Himalaya Adventures – as before, everything was well organised and ran smoothly. They deliver a professional service, with a personal touch. Even if plans change, as they sometimes do in the mountains, Dawa and his team have the resources and connections to quickly adapt and make alternative arrangements, which is comforting to know when you are trekking or climbing in remote areas. I highly recommend Dream Himalaya Adventures – and thanks again to Dawa, Ten Di, Karma, Yeshi, Furi, Gyalje, Phurba, all the porters and the entire team at base camp for the fun trek, a safe & successful summit and a fantastic time at base camp - hope to see you again
Dream Himalaya Adventures gave us an excellent service for our expedition to the Thame Valley. Everything was well-organised, we were looked after, and would recommend the agency. Thanks Dawa and Sherku Thanks and hope all’s good with you and Sherku Tom Livingstone
Dream Himalaya is an awesome outfitter! The Guides, Porters, and Dawa are trustworthy and easy to talk to... It's these kind people that makes your trip hassle and worry free. Highly recommend!
The EBC trek is incredible and highly recommended with stunning scenery and good people. DHA's guides and porters are great and took very good care of us. If you are looking for a great trek in the Himalaya's then this one is for you!
Patrick & Geoff - Basecamp 2019 Dawa Sherpa and his team were exceptional in their care and aid of out Basecamp trek for 2019. It was an amazing experience not only to see and feel the mountains but also to speak to his crew and learn about the region and trekking/mountaineering in general. They were always ready to help whenever we needed. We will certainly be coming back to Nepal and the Himalayas again. Most definitely through Dream Himalaya Adventures. Patrick Nhim
Wow wow wow! Ok so the scenery was awesome - that’s a given! The food was nutritional and hot! Sleeping was easy because the body was ready for rest. But the team at Dream Himalaya Adventures could not have been better selected. Nothing was a problem. Anything was possible. If you wanted it, you got it! Their main aim is to get you to your destination and back safely and for you to enjoy the entire experience. If we weren’t eating enough, they encouraged us to fuel up. If we weren’t drinking enough “pani” (water), they stopped us for a drink break. If we walked too quickly (I’m amazed some of our team members could), they reminded us to walk “bistari bistari” (slowly slowly) to
I have recently returned from touring and trekking with Dream Himalayas Adventures team with Dawa and his Sherpas. The highlights of my trip was the stunning scenery on the trek and the friendly people of Nepal. It was definitely a life changing experience and i would love to do it again some day with my daughter. Dawa and his team were amazing i found them very organized, caring and friendly which impressed me.
We had a beautiful trip! From the very first contact with Dawa a few months before to the airport drop off, Dream Himalayan Advantures provided excellent service, answered questions quickly, and took wonderful care of our team. Their guides were so friendly and very competent in what they do. We had a big team of 10 people, but they were able to meet each person’s needs. Would definitely work with them again!
Dawa S. Lama of the Dream Himalaya Adventures has provided services for the expedition to Jannu (Kumbhakarna), 7711m via South East route. The expedition took place between February and April 2019. It combined a documentary film project “The Wall of Shadows” about the life of Sherpas” Dawa’s insight, a phenomenal attention to detail and discipline, his admirable communication skills, polite and respectful manner, an ease of problem solving, open-mindedness, generosity and adaptability to unusual requirements from the film team were the qualities that put Dawa and his Agency at the top of the list of the most reliable agents in Nepal. We sincerely recommend the Agency and trust any expedition or trekking party will be fully satisfied and comes home from the Himalaya
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