Mt. Manaslu, (8,163m) the eighth highest mountain in the world, is located about forty miles east of Annapurna I. Mt. Manaslu was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. It is one of the most popular among the 8000m peaks for climbing in the Himalayas of Nepal and especially for Japanese Climbers. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions. Possible avalanches in bad weather, crevasses and slippery snow in between camp II and I, makes this mountain a little distinct from other mountains in Nepal. Normally 3 high camps are established to attempt the summit. This mountain is a good choice for those climbers wishing to climb one of the 8,000m peak of the Himalayasand as a preparation climb for Mt.Everest.
HW Tilman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950, but the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952.
A very famous climber in the field of mountaineering expedition, Reinhold Messner made the fourth ascent of Manaslu as a member of a Tyroleam expedition that climbed the peak from the Marsyangdi valley in 1972
A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Buri-Gandaki valley in 1953 when another team followed in 1954. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. The South Korean attempt was in 1971 and in April 1972 an avalanche resulted in the death of five climbers and 10 Sherpas, and ended the second South Korean expedition.
Climbing Routes and High Camps
On the return, an option is fly by Chopper to KTM and share the cost among the members
Day 1Arrival in KTM (1300m), Transfer to Hotel& Briefing O/N Hotel
Day 2Half Day Sightseeing, Equipment checking and fitting O/N Hotel
Day 3Final preparation and packing
Day 4Drive to Dharapani via Beshishar (1960m) 7+4hrs
Day 5Trek to Yak Kharka (3,020m) 5hrs
Day 6Trek to Bimtang (3,590m) 5hrs
Day 7Acclimatization day in Bimtang (3,590m) 4hrs
Day 8Cross over Larkey Pass (5,160m) & continue up to Samdo (3,875m) - 9hrs
Day 9Trek to Sama Goan (3,520m) 6hrs
Day 10Rest & acclimatization at Sama Goan (3,520m)
Day 11Trek to Manaslu Base camp (4,400m) 5-6hrs
Day 12-14Acclimatization and preparations at Base Camp
Day 15 - 38Acclimatization, Load ferries, route opening, summit attempt of Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) and descent to the base camp
Day 39Trek to Sama Goan (3,520m) 5-6hrs
Day 40-43Return trek and drive to Kathmandu
Day 44Extra day in Kathmandu
Day 45Final Departure to home
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and standard number of oxygen, which plays the vital roll for the success and safe climb of the peak.
Dream Himalaya Adventuresstrongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold.If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience.
Published on : November 05, 2018
On 27th Sept 2018 we climbed sucessfully Mount Manaslu with Dream Himalaya Aventure. It was the second time we choosed this agency - in November 2017 we reached the Summit of Mera peak- and for sure it will be not the last time! Dawa and his team are very professional and they provide a high Quality Service. Thanks to Tendy Sherpa & Karma Sherpa to help us in this fantastic experiencia. See us in the next!
Paola Licheri, Spain
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